Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp

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I have a 68 Valiant with 2.XX:1 gears, 2,800 stall and a 380hp crate engine (they dyno 400+hp). All it is a stock Magnum with a 288/292 230/236 .512 108 (something like that) and a single plane M1.

Even though a set of 3.55-4.10 would really wake it up, it still runs plenty strong and has plenty of low and mid power at regular road speeds but yes like AJ said to get into the meat of the power I got to be doing more than 40 mph in 1st but it still making more power 3000-5000 plus rpms than a stock and 212 cam.

Am I saying go with a cam like mine, No, what I saying is if you want to a mild cam is definitely a no biggie and gives useable power returns like TT5.9mag said. If not nothing wrong with stock either worked well in my 5.9l Jeep.
 
ScampNYC said:
Some open questions rattling around in my head:
  • Any recommendations for an electric fuel pump set up? I want something quiet and not too pricey.
  • Does anyone know why Schumacher adapter plates are $80 better than Trans Dapt adapter plates? (adapting the 360 motor to /6 k frame)
  • Any recs for a timing chain set?
  • Should I get a Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner?
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i used an edelbrock 17301 pump recently on a project. quiet and not a billion dollars. carter 4594 is a good option as well.

the schumacher kit is hands down better in quality, fit and finish. it's worth the extra cost.

summit's true roller timing set is good value for money-- and it has adjustable key ways. melling 40406 set is a great budget piece.

since i'm spending your money-- you should absolutely get an ultra sonic! just make sure that it's big enough to do a 4bbl carb.
 
ScampNYC said:
This is great info, thanks. If I do a Eddy intake, that's a $350 price difference but still cheaper than sourcing V belt pulleys, balancer and brackets, unless by grace of god I find a used set.

And good call on the cam regrind, someone on my original thread also recommended Oregon Cams. I'll have to do a price comparison. Bullet Cams is on the East so shipping may be better. I plan on keeping track of every dollar for this build!

Seems like valve springs will be a must as well.
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if you can find them, you can cheap out and use mopar 2.2L/2.5L 4cyl retainers to use a straight spring with the 8mm metric magnum valve stems. when I built that 318 18 years ago, the hughes #1110 springs were the best price for lift and spring pressure needs. I reused head bolts and had no issues
 
Ok. Due to the overwhelming input, I think I'll go for the 904.

Bobzilla said:
You will have to decide if that transmission setup is right for you. Personally, if I was keeping a tight budget and had no plans for a rear axle change, I would put a 904 transmission in it so it can retain the same original drive shaft. The description of that transmission kit says it was intended for a 73 charger. If that is true, the driveshaft should be too long for your swap, I think. You would have to verify that.
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Hey, so the 904 with a small block will have the output of the trans in the same location as the /6? So the driveshaft length will not need to be altered? That is big savings as well..
 
ScampNYC said:
Ok. Due to the overwhelming input, I think I'll go for the 904.



Hey, so the 904 with a small block will have the output of the trans in the same location as the /6? So the driveshaft length will not need to be altered? That is big savings as well..
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if you had a 904 in there, then yes. all the 904's are the same length.
 
For reference to the positioning of the Jeep power steering location. Subject is a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited. This was the only year of Jeep to ever get the 5.9. Prior years of the ZJ platform did have a 5.2 option. Optional on 5.2 and standard equipment on the Limited was Speed Sensitive Steering.
IMG_0667.jpeg
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ScampNYC said:
How hard is it to rebuild a 904? I have rebuilt a 440 before and an a-833...
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Yup, you can do it.

In addition to the book, a member here emailed me a Chrysler video that I used extensively during my one and only 904 rebuild. I'm still beating on it 6 years later!!

If you'd like me to email you a copy, PM me your email address.
 
AJ/FormS said:
What's magic about 300 @ say 5200rpm?
How often are you going there?
What gears are in your Scamp?
My guess is 2.73s. If that's true, yur looking at 5000= 57mph in First; and 96mph in Second. never mind 140 in Direct.
In First gear, there is little to no wind resistance, so all that power more or less goes to tirespin.
You said;

Then leave the engine alone.

For low-speed/ low rpm performance, just install a 2800 convertor, a Sure-Grip, some SlapperBars, maybe some sportier gears, and call it done.
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But you go 7200 RPM every time you're behind the wheel. You've said so so many times it gets vomitous. So why can't other people go 5200?
 
crackedback said:
Not only no But F no....

Put a good 904 behind it.

If going auto, put a GOOD converter in it. Most important piece of the puzzle to get it to run hard.
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might be buying a 904 tonight.
What would be a good convertor to use?
Mild 360, mild cam, my rear gears I'm sure are 2.xx
 
2500~3K

the higher number if it's a well built unit from a good company. the lower number if it's an off the shelf plug n' play.
 
ScampNYC said:
might be buying a 904 tonight.
What would be a good convertor to use?
Mild 360, mild cam, my rear gears I'm sure are 2.xx
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You’re not building a race car. If 300hp is your goal, and you’re keeping the 2.xx gears just put a stock converter in it. Save the money. You’ll be much happier cruising to the ice cream stand. Now, if you jump up in gear, (like 3.23s or 3.55s) and you want a little more stop light to stop light gitty up then a good 2800 or so converter can make a big difference.
 
a little light reading on the morning commute to work today ... This is the portion of my subway ride where the train is elevated above the streets, with cars driving underneath. Once I cross the Williamsburg Bridge into Manhattan, the train goes underground.

This book tells you to check the cam centerline before you tear the engine apart completely. I hope I don't really need to do that?

IMG_3725 (1).jpg
 
ScampNYC said:
a little light reading on the morning commute to work today ... This is the portion of my subway ride where the train is elevated above the streets, with cars driving underneath. Once I cross the Williamsburg Bridge into Manhattan, the train goes underground.

This book tells you to check the cam centerline before you tear the engine apart completely. I hope I don't really need to do that?

View attachment 1716478092
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If you plan to reuse it, maybe. But just degree whatever cam you put in it and you’ll be fine. The timing set SHOULD change (as well as the cam) with a rebuild so it’s good practice to degree it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
But you go 7200 RPM every time you're behind the wheel. You've said so so many times it gets vomitous. So why can't other people go 5200?
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Did you read my post?
Did you understand it?
Lemmee help you.
Listen; I'm trying to be nice here;
What's magic about 300 @ say 5200rpm?
How often are you going there?
What gears are in your Scamp?
My guess is 2.73s.
If that's true,
yur looking at 5000=57mph in First; and 96mph in Second, never mind 140 in Direct.
In First gear, there is little to no wind resistance,
so all that power more or less goes to tirespin.
You said;
(quote missing)
Then leave the engine alone.
For low-speed/low rpm performance, just install a 2800 convertor, a Sure-Grip, some SlapperBars, maybe some sportier gears, and call it done.
Click to expand...

Thus OP, as a laid back streeter, on any particular day, is almost never gunna hit the PowerPeak more than once and only on the way to getting up to hiway speed....... and when he does, the Torqueflite will drag the rpm down to 59%, and it's game-over.
Therefore,
my thought is;
Why sacrifice power where you need it/want it, say from take-off to 35mph,
to get that top-end power, where you hardly ever go?
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As for
RustyRatRod said:
But you go 7200 RPM every time you're behind the wheel. You've said so so many times it gets vomitous. So why can't other people go 5200?
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Listen old man;
if reading my posts makes you sick, then why do you read them? Do you like being "vomitous"? I m ean, the solution is simple, put me on ignore.
Listen; some of the time you can't get sense of my posts anyway, and other times, you get yourself so riled up that your opinionated and never-appreciated potty-mouth comes out. I would have thought that an old-timer like you, with all your history, and being a so-called Christian on top of that, could do better.
Listen brother; I forgive you for so-often berating me. I turn the other cheek, cuz I don't want you to burn in hell on my account.
Listen, tough guy; I can't do anything about your belly-sickness, that's on you to get rid of; do I need to remind you what works for me?
 
ScampNYC said:
Ok guys… let’s all relax
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Disregard that guy. He's obsessed with some **** he had twenty years ago. Every thread always gets side tracked to needing 200psi compression and 4.11s.


Bottom line is a mild cam will definitely wake up that motor. I have the exact same setup in my car. 5.9 magnum, stock everything with an oregon cams regrind, airgap, and stock manifolds. Runs great.

I had 2.76s and stock converter, which was pretty solid and a great highway cruiser. Went to 3.21s and a 2700 stall converter more recently. Woke it up, but much worse on the highway. You will be happy with your car either way.
 

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