Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp

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Ok back to the subject at hand.

Still collecting bargain parts for this build. There is a guy near me with a used Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb. Electric choke. Is that enough CFM for my use?
 
ScampNYC said:
Ok back to the subject at hand.

Still collecting bargain parts for this build. There is a guy near me with a used Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb. Electric choke. Is that enough CFM for my use?
Click to expand...
Enough? Yes. But IMO there are much better choices. Lots of guys love the edlebroken carbs. I do NOT. If I put your combo together it would get a 3310vs Holley. All that being said, buy the carburetor YOU are most comfortable tuning. And if that’s an edlebrock get a 650avs2.
 
Im still experiencing the off idle lean blues with the avs2. I don't recommend these.
 
I just bought the Eddy 1406. I got it for a bargain.... You all might not like it, but I've always messed with Holleys in the past, and I'm curious to try an Edelbrock. Plus I hear they are better for street dependability, though not as flexible for producing power as a Holley. Anyway, we'll see...
 
That’s a fine carb. Bolt on and forget.

I have one on a ford 289. Threw it on a few years ago and it has always run perfectly. Only ever touched it to adjust the idle mixture and speed.
 

ScampNYC said:
I just bought the Eddy 1406. I got it for a bargain.... You all might not like it, but I've always messed with Holleys in the past, and I'm curious to try an Edelbrock. Plus I hear they are better for street dependability, though not as flexible for producing power as a Holley. Anyway, we'll see...
Click to expand...
It’ll be fine. Run that shiz.
 
We have the manual choke version of that carb on my son's car with a 318. It's been very dependable.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Enough? Yes. But IMO there are much better choices. Lots of guys love the edlebroken carbs. I do NOT. If I put your combo together it would get a 3310vs Holley. All that being said, buy the carburetor YOU are most comfortable tuning. And if that’s an edlebrock get a 650avs2.
Click to expand...
Atta boy! Good man.
 
I got the block and heads over to the machine shop today, and the cam is shipped to Oregon! Woo!

This morning as I finished the teardown, I took a couple pics of some of the con rod bearings. I think they looked kinda rough, I'll be replacing them. The main bearings looked better but I'm gonna do those too.

Funny, the rearmost con rods had the most wear, and that's also where the lifters were stuck in their bores. Not sure if that means anything...

anyway, I'm gonna order the bearings, as we ll as rings now.
Any recommendations here? Funny, the options seem cheaper on Summit than RockAuto.
www.summitracing.com

DODGE 5-9L-360 MOPAR-SMALL-BLOCK-MAGNUM Piston Rings Engines & Components - 4.000 in. Bore (in.) - In Stock Filter Options - Vendor In Stock Filter Options - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing

Find DODGE 5-9L-360 MOPAR-SMALL-BLOCK-MAGNUM Piston Rings 4.000 in. Bore (in.), In Stock Filter Options, Vendor In Stock Filter Options and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing!
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

IMG_3770.jpg


IMG_3771.jpg
 
Biggest thing to note: There is a bug in the summit catalog and they list 360LA rings under magnum compatible. They are not.

Make sure the kit you get is 1.5, 1.5, 4mm, not 5/64.
 
Hey. So the block and heads are at the machine shop right now getting the full treatment. The cam is in Oregon for its regrind. Right now all I have to do is plan and shop for more parts.

Right now I am thinking about ways to up the drivability of the car. Remember, I’m not building a hot rod, more of a spirited driver. Dependability is very important on this build and I’d like my wife to enjoy driving it too. So I’m thinking about cold starts and warm ups. With the air gap manifold, of course I won’t have the warm up benefits of the exhaust crossover passage. But I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to get a warm air intake set up going, the way they did from the factory. I’m hoping that the hot air, combined with the electric choke, will make those cold morning start ups less of an ordeal, even for someone like my wife who has very little experience with carburetors.

Only thing is, all the A body driver side exhaust manifolds i see don’t have any kind of “stove” on top of them. Does anyone know what the factory did for a heat stove on v8 a bodies? Or is this not even worth persuing?

Also, any other bright ideas on the topics of drivability outside of just how the engine is set up (carb, cam choice, etc) The AC will be a must.

IMG_3808.png
 
The later versions, 72 and up, A body drivers side manifolds had provisions for a heat stove on them. Both versions, 318 and 340/360. There is a set of 72 up 340/360 manifolds on here for sale right now, but priced way too high. Thing is though, back in the day everybody took all of the heat stoves off and tossed them in the trash with the charcoal canisters because it was smog stuff. Those are the parts that are the hardest to find. I have a 71 Challenger with a warmed up small block in it, with an Edelbrock 600 that has an electric choke. It sits on an LD340 intake with the exhaust crossovers blocked off. On a cold start, the choke will set first time every time and the car will run at fast idle until I hit the gas once and let it idle down.
 
RustyRatRod said:
This ^^^^^ is the kinda thing you need to listen to. You can tell when someone has actually DONE it VS someone who hasn't done anything in 20 plus years. Ole Kenny there has probably modded more stuff in his lifetime that we'd all like to hear about. I'll also add this. I BELIEVE the Magnum truck manifolds with the 2 1/8" openings will fit the 67 and up A bodies. I'm unsure if they fit with power steering, but I know I've seen some guys here do it. You might look into that as well.
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Column shift may also be an issue.

CudaJason said:
100% times 2 on cleaning the lifters. I just did this with swapping a 5.9 into my 66 Barracuda. the amount of crap inside the lifters was mind blowing. my 5.9 was just as sludgey as yours is, but an hour or so of soaking in Varsol (parts Cleaner) and then taking the retainer clip out and the plunger of each lifter and cleaning them out with tiny brushes did the trick. After getting mine all back together, not a single valve train tick. plus way cheaper than a coupe hundred bucks for new lifters. just be careful not to shoot the retainer clips across the room!
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FWIW, Rock Auto has a full set of lifters for $112. They're Enginetech brand, PN L2167.

ScampNYC said:
I emailed Oregon Cams today.
Here is what he said. Any advice? I don't speak cam-ese.




#1429

210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep

#2204

213/220 @ .050”, 265/275 adv, .480”/.498” lift, 110 sep

#1341

218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .482”/.482” lift, 110 sep

#1634

218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .528”/.536” lift, 110 sep

#1990

224/230 @ .050”, 276/282 adv, .510”/.510” lift, 112 sep

These are some of the most popular grinds in the area you are looking for, I can move the lobe sep around if you want something different. We can regrind your core for $239, it will take about two to three weeks.

If you send us your core please make sure to include you contact info in the box with the cam.
Click to expand...

I don't either, but from 25,000+ miles of driving it in a 4-speed car with 2.76(!) gears, my Hughes 1418 has LOTS of low end-rather than retyping the specs, here's the cam card: https://hughesengines.com/Upload/Cam_Cards_2015/SER1418ALN10.jpg .
 
ScampNYC said:
Ok back to the subject at hand.

Still collecting bargain parts for this build. There is a guy near me with a used Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb. Electric choke. Is that enough CFM for my use?
Click to expand...

Yes.

ScampNYC said:
Hey. So the block and heads are at the machine shop right now getting the full treatment. The cam is in Oregon for its regrind. Right now all I have to do is plan and shop for more parts.

Right now I am thinking about ways to up the drivability of the car. Remember, I’m not building a hot rod, more of a spirited driver. Dependability is very important on this build and I’d like my wife to enjoy driving it too. So I’m thinking about cold starts and warm ups. With the air gap manifold, of course I won’t have the warm up benefits of the exhaust crossover passage. But I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to get a warm air intake set up going, the way they did from the factory. I’m hoping that the hot air, combined with the electric choke, will make those cold morning start ups less of an ordeal, even for someone like my wife who has very little experience with carburetors.

Only thing is, all the A body driver side exhaust manifolds i see don’t have any kind of “stove” on top of them. Does anyone know what the factory did for a heat stove on v8 a bodies? Or is this not even worth persuing?

Also, any other bright ideas on the topics of drivability outside of just how the engine is set up (carb, cam choice, etc) The AC will be a must.

View attachment 1716483627
Click to expand...

Having DRIVEN my Duster in 40-degree temperatures with an electric-choke AVS, Air Gap intake, no heat riser, and an open scoop, just...don't worry about it. Pump it once, crank and fire. Mine being a 4-speed, I run it 1-2 minutes to stabilize the idle and go; drive gently until the temp gauge is past 125.
 
Jarlaxle said:
Yes.



Having DRIVEN my Duster in 40-degree temperatures with an electric-choke AVS, Air Gap intake, no heat riser, and an open scoop, just...don't worry about it. Pump it once, crank and fire. Mine being a 4-speed, I run it 1-2 minutes to stabilize the idle and go; drive gently until the temp gauge is past 125.
Click to expand...
my old 5th ave was cranky and didn't like to start when temps got under 20 with an air gap and 600 electric choke edlebrock carb.....will F/M/J exhaust manifolds fit? they might be easier to find with a heat stove than a 55 year old A body one.....
 
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