Motor wasn’t properly chassis grounded. Once I added a ground from motor to chassis, battery negative to chassis, and motor to battery negative, everything worked fine. Resistance related I’d imagine
My assumption is that any electric sender operates using heat to affect resistance, which is what you’re reading on the gauge. If the system isn’t properly grounded, then the unit will give off skewed readings.
My fix was grounding to the chassis better lol - dropped my temp 40 degrees.
Make sure your engine is grounded to chassis as well as battery, and make sure they’re GOOD grounds. I chased the issue all because my own basic negligence.
I’ll get some roller time next weekend. Assuming I’m going to be upping my profile a bit I may move over to a roller setup as well. We’ll see after I get a baseline
goal was to have a street night monster capable of low 12’s high 11’s, but also a car that Im able to cruise with to regional shows.
It comes out of the hole great, but it just doesn’t shove me in the seat like I expected, especially into 3rd
Just a butt dyno. I have an LSX car (different animal) that makes 402rwhp and it’s a night/day difference to me and that car only runs 12.50 - granted that’s with a 2.1 60’
Not counting vacuum, I’m not even sure what I have for part throttle. I had some rattling at first and took some of the vacuum advance out (adjustable vac can), but I’m only talking WOT performance at the moment.
As far as part throttle driving, you’d think the car was bone stock besides the...
Custom grind may be my best bet. My biggest concern and why I went with the voodoo line is that the car is a weekend warrior but I also cruise with it. I want enough low end that I can comfortably drive in occasional traffic without being miserable.