Recent content by Jarlaxle

Do you remember exactly which one? There seem to be many.

Won't fit mine, I have a 26" radiator.

In preparing my Duster to have body work done, the repair guy discovered that my radiator is leaking. :BangHead: It is original-looking (black 2-core), but clearly not original; I'm guessing it's a part-store replacement. There seem to be a large number of <$200 aluminum radiators available on...

No-my 73 has a 22" opening (and 26" radiator) and was a 318/3-speed.

Looks like I'm going PST. The Lares is awful, and the FFI is out of my budget. Probably 20:1; I'm not sure 16:1 is a good idea with a small Tuff wheel and 17" tires.

Anyone have any experience with the PST manual boxes?

I have a Cherokee donut, I think a T125/90D16.

I wouldn't mess with it.

I'm with @middleagecrisis about the fuel pump. On the off chance you have the oil you drained out, I suggest sending a sample to Blackstone for analysis-that will tell you exactly what is in it. (Metals, gas, coolant.) www.blackstone-labs.com

Title pretty much covers it, looking for the LF chassis rail for a Duster. Closer to the northeast the better, because I'm sure shipping will be pricey.

That's the one.

That's good, because I'm pretty sure that I HAVE one of those.

I have no idea. I have headers and no heat stove.

Yes. Having DRIVEN my Duster in 40-degree temperatures with an electric-choke AVS, Air Gap intake, no heat riser, and an open scoop, just...don't worry about it. Pump it once, crank and fire. Mine being a 4-speed, I run it 1-2 minutes to stabilize the idle and go; drive gently until the temp...

Column shift may also be an issue. FWIW, Rock Auto has a full set of lifters for $112. They're Enginetech brand, PN L2167. I don't either, but from 25,000+ miles of driving it in a 4-speed car with 2.76(!) gears, my Hughes 1418 has LOTS of low end-rather than retyping the specs, here's the...