Recent content by mhuppertz

Anyone found front drums and hubs for a V8 Dart (273) that have the larger lug pattern? I went with the 5x4.5" for the Dana 60 in the back, just want to match it up front, and the Google machine is laying goose eggs for me at the moment (or it might just be me) :).

Not exactly the same, but the 0.509, 292 juicer purple I ran in a 383 was fantastic. My converter was way too tight, but once she hit 3k it was a Ninja rocket! Building a more scienced out 440 version of that engine for my '69 Dart GT, Torker, 2" to 2 1/8" Step Proparts style semi fender well...

You could sell tickets for people to just come and look at that car

Fantastic, what a "barn" find. Please keep the progress photos coming.

.035" Quench on iron heads allow higher static compression ratios without detonation. As partially stated above, thin rings reduce friction and also measurably reduce heat load into the water jacket. An intake manifold with high velocity runners helps with better cylinder filling and swirl, and...

I lost my last slantie in a bad trade, but I had milled the head .15", had nice long tube Hookers, aluminum 2bbl replead with porosity issues, Mopar electronic ignition, it would fry a tire just fine in my D100. Want another just to play with, have a few M60 and one M90 blowers which would be...

I'm still holding out hope Edelbrock has pitty on us and makes an aftermarket aluminum high compression head, cross flow Hemi would be awesome because you could run much bigger valves.

I'm going to run a Torker with a spread bore adapter on my 440 Dart if I can.

Tunnel ram is a "Ram charger" original idea, and they make amazing torque and HP. Just sucks looking around it in a street car.

The great thing about the 383 is you can wrap the pee out of it and it will never break. It's a magic motor.

My build isn't for everyone, but I am recreating a mid 80's 383 build for my 440, but with more modern tech. Using quench block hypereutectic pistons set to 0.035" quench, old school 0.509" 292° 108° hydraulic cam, single springs with damper, back cut stainless 2.14" 1.88" valves, Total seal gap...

I don't want to use solid mounts on my 440 Dart, but I do want much more stable than rubber. I have poly mounts in my '93 Cummins Dodge and they are great, but I haven't been able to find them for the Dart.

If the intake Manifold is a factory dicast aluminum unit make sure it is completely sealed with paint because they have porosity issues that make tuning them a headache. I chased lean issues for a while until I figured that out.

I always loved the idea of a Clutch flute setup, especially after building my (long gone) 1974 Cuda 383 with solid motor mounts, Cheetah full manual valve body and a way to stiff converter. When that car shifted it was like getting hit in the teeth with a ball peen hammer, glorious violence. My...

My vote is RPM air gap for autocross and drivability.