Recent content by Deleted Member

how is it insulting? and yea it a circle jerk . just ignore me , this community is toxic

this is site is so polarizing, what a circle jerk about an obvious answer. over it

I have a veeeery slight seep on the HG. Id like to either retorque the headbolts or just replace them with studs. Dont want to remove the head, can i replace the studs one at a time and retorque initial then when they are all in do the second and third passes?

See my recent thread. Can be ***** of a job but doable. Check behind trans dust cover for oil. Rear main needs to be too if it's back there.

I have been in the same boat before but with three separate failures on this assembly, one by literally the guy who wrote the book, something had to be done. All the parts here were factory type replacements. Right stuff: Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker – BLACK is different than...

I did also coat the bolts the ARP thread selant, forgot to mention that ! thanks ! id suggest you take a look at the fastfinsh the back profile is so much more appropriate than the felpro /opinion

Since I have owned my car for a few years the oil pan and rear main have always been trouble. From minor to serious leaks and back again, its been a HUGE pain in the ***. Bought the car and the leak was minor but annoying from the rear main only. I suspected an original rear seal as all of...

For the cheap full strength simple green and a simple scotch Brite pad after overnight soaking will get off 95% of it

ive now had two different shops (one beind Doug D) and me work on my engine to solve a rear main leak. crank was replaced and engine rebuilt during this time. cant get the rear main/pain to sop leaking Pan is true and flat , crank is round and not pitted. Is there a difference between an...

I was originally looking at the two row from champion and was going to pay to have the outlet moved over but it turns out the two row is actually thicker than the three row!

This is actually further than the "stock" setup. And yea that's definitely has me a bit worried. I don't want to go to electric and have to upgrade the charging system.

1964 Dart, 225 Slant, 904 pushbutton all stock , 4 blade engine fan no clutch, PS My stock origial rad just could not keep up with the heat here in Las Vegas. On hot days (100+) with a clean cooling system and a fresh water pump the car would bleed coolant from the numerous patches on the rad...

If you're running straight water like you said and not running cooling on 100° day you're definitely going to boil the water after you shut the car off . That's why you're steaming.

My original timing cover on my 64 is bent, I have a late model timing cover just like the one pictures above that came from a truck. I'd really like not to put my own marks in the damper. Anyone know what damper listed will work with later model covers ?

wrong board sorry should be in mechanical