Hi there, sorry I must have messed up the “start conversation” thing when I clicked CONTACT SELLER. Can you send me a message for purchase details? Thanks
Well... Yeah. 108" wheelbase, then add subframe connectors and your drivetrain combo of choice. Simple, great bracket car recipe just off the stock suspension platform.
YES valve-shrouding will be an issue.
I can't watch this sh*t show any longer...
A 2.02 intake valve on a 3.91 (or any over-bore possible there-of, even a 4.04" for goodness sake) cylinder wall with a low-RPM cycle (1200-2200) will SUFFER from lack of velocity with that big of an intake valve...
My hope is a tree fell on it and the guy salvaged the ride as best he could...
With that being said, "just because you can, doesn't mean you can practice car-abortion"... Or however the saying goes...
Here's a "quick'n'dirty" prosthetic hand my engineering team at school slapped together for the term project last week.
It's ABS plastic and was designed in Solidworks. The device is meant for victims of political turmoil in least developed countries that may have lost digits in explosions or...
Really slick car. You nailed the look of the "three" genre's of vehicle you were going for.
What brand/size/back-spacing of wheels are those? Never seen them before. They slapped me in the face. I dig em'.
I want to remove the heat riser permanently and plug the hole.
If I cut off the little stopper-bar that prevents the counterweight from spinning freely, it appears that I could grab the flapper with channel locks and the counterweight should loosen (using PB or heat) from the shaft, correct...
Looking for info on removing the heat riser from my right-side 340 HP manifold.
The more I play with it the more I feel like I'm going to break something and the flapper is going to be a permanent resident in the down tube...
There is plenty of advice on buying a replacement heat riser...