I'm a huge fan of just a basic re-ring. Of course, that is as long as there is not a huge ridge at the top of the cylinders. Additionally, a good, crank grinding so the oil pressure will still be up high. Reason I like just a re-ring is two fold. First, it saves money. Secondly, it makes for a good loose short block. High performance engines will benefit from a loose bore in that it offers less friction, and allows the engine to run cooler. Nine times out of ten, if there's not a lot of ridge, there won't be any out of roundness, either. I've built a LOT of engines like this through the years and you know what? they held up better in most cases than the ones I spent big bucks on with all the machine work. DON'T skimp on the crankshaft, even if it's close. Get the crank clearances right. Run a stock volume oil pump. A high pressure or high volume will rob too much horse power. Assuming you have a decent set of heads, an EXCELLENT street camshaft is the Crane 643801. Here it is:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=CRN-643801&part=CRN-643801&autoview=sku
Although it says not available there, call S&S cycles and see when it will be. they bought Crane Cams out and are still producing ALL of their inventory. That camshaft is probably one of the single BEST cams for the street you can buy. It may possibly even beat the MP cams and that's a tall order indeed. It only requires cheap single springs, too and you can retain the stock rocker setup. Also, since it has a wide lobe separation angle, it will work very well with factory HP exhaust manifolds. It will also keep cylinder pressure high with the stock compression ratio. If you decide to add headers, it will work well with those too. All I can say on the carb is one word. THERMOQUAD. Run a good dual plane intake. Only two that I know of that will accept a spread bore. the Edelbrock Performer, and the Offenhauser. Spend the extra money on the Offy. As for ignition, nobody does it like Mopar Performance. That's about all I got.
