Clutch Issues - No Burnouts

I took the Z bar off some time ago and replaced the bushings, the seals, the clip that goes on the Z bar and holds the bushing in place, and one of the pivots.
Its an original BB car, I checked that the Z bar is the correct one and the bracket through Brewers, and ironically they were the only ones that listed the correct Z bar. I never checked the bellhousing numbers.
Since I 're-built' the Z bar and aligned it the pedal is nice.

My motor mounts look older, but not broken or torn up. I can put a torque strap on it- driver's side if I remember correctly.
Right now the air cleaner is tight on the inside of the scoop but I do not see any evidence of it rubbing.
This car also has the driver side motor mount at the very front of the engine, and the passenger one centered, so is the motor really able to move enough to bind the linkage? And require a torque strap?

No whooshing noise, and with no radio I hear everything that there is to hear.

It looks like the oil pan is leaking, not the seal, not sure about the tranny but the clutch looks dry. I'll check it again this weekend.

Contamination? But my clutch is not slipping. Or maybe I am confused here.

Cudaspaz, why would your clutch slip on dry pavement? Is it the oil/gear oil that is getting on it?
If you removed your over center spring, what would that do?

Question on the wet vs dry:
If I pop the clutch, and the motor torques to one side and binds up the linkage, it will keep the pedal down, and the clutch will burn, or "slip."
If I do the same thing on wet pavement, the motor won't move because there is no resistance from the rear/tires?

Sorry for all the questions, and I greatly appreciate everyone's input.

I am just hoping to better understand what is going on here, because its not making sense at this point.

Thank you FABO!