Carb Blues, Gonna Let It Go

If I recall, you have a /6 in a car which sat for a while right? The carbs, both Carter BBS and Holley 1920 used on these engines are not exactly complex nor failure prone. They don't "just die" all of the sudden due to lack of things to go wrong (the original BBS on my 65 Dart is still working fine past 200K miles). And although parts-store rebuilds aren't 100% reliable, consider the statistical chance that your problem may not be the carb if more than 2 new carbs didn't fix it. Also a rebuild kit is about 25 bucks and you can easily do as good as the jobber shops which rebuild for the parts houses. Besides, unless you tear a gasket, you can pull the carb apart a couple times to clean before you need a kit.

Now, I've said it before and I'll say it again. 90% OF CARB PROBLEMS ARE IGNITION. You need 3 things to make an engine run; fuel, air and spark. To determine if the fuel system or ignition system is your problem, get a can of starting fluid. Open the throttle and give about a 3 second shot down the throat. Re-install the air cleaner assembly and start the car. If it starts your problem is fuel related, if not suspect spark.

For a quick carb diagnois look down the bore and see if the accelerator pump squirts when you open the throttle by hand. If not, it is probably a fuel pump not the carb. Take the line loose from the carb and crank the engine over. Fuel should squirt out pretty good on the 1st or 2nd revolution of the engine. If not, suspect the fuel pump. Don't trust clear fuel filters either. A bad PCV valve will cause all sorts of idle and starting problems.

Your 65 unless converted has points-type ignition. Worn/burnt points will cause exactly the symptom you describe. Remember, with points you NEVER want to leave the ignition switch in the on position without the engine running, or you will fry them quickly. Check your points gap (.020) and make sure the inside of your distributor cap is dry and clean. Also make sure all wiring is in good shape and securely fastned.

OK, to check for spark, you really need a helper. Pull a spark plug wire off the plug and stick a #2 Phillips screwdriver into the terminal. Place the screwdriver anw wire such that the blade of the screwdriver is about 1/16" off the valvecover but not touching metal anywhere. Crank the engine while looking for a spark. You should see a good healthy spark and hear a ticking sound as it sparks. If not, thats your problem. Bypass your balast resistor and try again, especially if it dies as soon as you release the key.

For a $100 trip to NAPA you can do a thorough tune-up on a slant which will have it purring. Plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, PCV valve and filters. Cheaper than another "rebuilt" carb, and more likely to keep you rolling for quite a while. Also check all the simple stuff, vacuum/PCV hose hooked up? PCV valve stuck open? Choke hooked up?

Honda makes a good reliable car and all that, but reality check time here. If somebody offers to trade you a 10 year old Honda straight across for a 40 year old Plymouth be afraid, be very afraid. Ever price Honda parts, or nice late model Hondas? Besides depending, on mileage/abuse a 96 Civic is probably towards the end of it's service life. Unless you just got bit by the Solo II bug, think twice.

Here's my recommendation, fix the Valiant and run it for another year while you catch up on bills. Then if you are still attracted by the lure of fuel injection, air conditioning and 35 mpg, look at a NEW car (with a warranty). You will then still have the Valiant as a "pet" and something "practical" to get you around. Thats what I finally did a few years back. I love working on my cars (65 Dart, 71 Jeep J-4000, 73 Triumph TR6) but I hate having to work on them. Thats why the main family car is an 03 Jetta TDI wagon (and the TR6 is probably going to become a 04 Miata soon). No more all night wrenching sessions in the dead of winter so we can get to work in the morning.