K Frame Removal Question

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SassyGrassScamp

SassyGrassScamp

My Addiction Has Begun
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When removing the k-frame, is it easier to crack the upper ball joints and leave the a-arms on the car, or remove the two bolts that secure each a-arm to the car and drop them with the k-frame?

Thanks
 
Either way works but most of the time the bolts seize in the bushings on the upper control arms.
 
I pop the joints loose and leave the UCA's on the car. Then, if necessary, get in there and work on those UCA bolts. They're usually a huge pain.
 
Its easier to pop the ball joints loose while still on the car when using a pickle fork (gives you something solid to hit against). Also its easier to unscrew the ball joint from the upper control arm while its still attached to the car.
 
daliant said:
Its easier to pop the ball joints loose while still on the car when using a pickle fork (gives you something solid to hit against). Also its easier to unscrew the ball joint from the upper control arm while its still attached to the car.
Click to expand...

Got the pickle forked and cracked the ball joints, but one word of advice....NEVER grab one of the drums and "steer" it to the other side unless you're sure the steering box is capped....Shot about 132 gallons of PS fluid all over my garage and out into my driveway, not to mention, all over me!!!!
 
NICE !!! LOL. 132 gallons ? Sometimes the messiest or hardest lessons are the best, you sure wont forget next time !!

I dont know if you have compressed air available, but I can recommend using an air chisel to get those nasty upper control arm bolts out. It worked for me.
 
OK....With limited time, I've been attacking the K-Frame removal and I'm having trouble with one torsion bar....I've got the rear clip out and the adjuster is dangling on the left bar, but I can't budge it....I can see that it moved at the rear because it's now flush where the clip was, but the front WILL NOT budge....I've put a little heat on it and now have some PB Blaster soaking on it, but no luck....What am I missing?

BTW, I've put a pipe wrench on it and bashed it with a hand sledge and also wrapped a ratchet strap around it and tied it to the rear housing....I've got tons of tension on the strap while smacking it.

Also, what are the size of the bolts holding up the K-Frame?....I've got a 1" and 1-1/8" and neither work.

Thanks
 
SassyGrassScamp said:
OK....With limited time, I've been attacking the K-Frame removal and I'm having trouble with one torsion bar....I've got the rear clip out and the adjuster is dangling on the left bar, but I can't budge it....I can see that it moved at the rear because it's now flush where the clip was, but the front WILL NOT budge....I've put a little heat on it and now have some PB Blaster soaking on it, but no luck....What am I missing?

BTW, I've put a pipe wrench on it and bashed it with a hand sledge and also wrapped a ratchet strap around it and tied it to the rear housing....I've got tons of tension on the strap while smacking it.

Also, what are the size of the bolts holding up the K-Frame?....I've got a 1" and 1-1/8" and neither work.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Remove the nuts on the brake strut rod, otherwise the strut rod will keep the LCA from moving. Then loosen the nut on the LCA stud. Back the nut out until it's flush with the end of the stud. Stick a 2x4 over it and give it a whack. The LCA stud should bust loose and the LCA will slide back along with the torsion bar. Remove them together, then work on getting the LCA off the torsion bar.

Don't remember the size of the bolt heads.

If you were just going to swap out torsion bars, I know this is making a bigger job of it. If you're taking it all apart anyway, then there's another alternative.

I got everything loose, then lowered the K member onto a floor jack. Then the torsion bars came out easily by wiggling stuff around.
 
fourspeed said:
Remove the nuts on the brake strut rod, otherwise the strut rod will keep the LCA from moving. Then loosen the nut on the LCA stud. Back the nut out until it's flush with the end of the stud. Stick a 2x4 over it and give it a whack. The LCA stud should bust loose and the LCA will slide back along with the torsion bar. Remove them together, then work on getting the LCA off the torsion bar.

Don't remember the size of the bolt heads.

If you were just going to swap out torsion bars, I know this is making a bigger job of it. If you're taking it all apart anyway, then there's another alternative.

I got everything loose, then lowered the K member onto a floor jack. Then the torsion bars came out easily by wiggling stuff around.
Click to expand...

I did exactly that on the right side, and the TB popped right out....The left side is a real subborn bastid.
 
I stopped using the tie rod/ball joint pickle fork a long time ago. I always bust loose ball joints or tie rod ends by using a large hammer and "squeezing" the ends that they are mounted to. It takes a few hits sometimes, but you are actually spreading the tapered mounts to pop the joint loose. And you don't ruin the rubber sleeves. Just a pointer.
 
SassyGrassScamp said:
Got the pickle forked and cracked the ball joints, but one word of advice....NEVER grab one of the drums and "steer" it to the other side unless you're sure the steering box is capped....Shot about 132 gallons of PS fluid all over my garage and out into my driveway, not to mention, all over me!!!!
Click to expand...

ROFLOL...... sorry.... that just struck me as funny!
 
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