NEED INFO! 383bb PLEASE

I recently bought a 383bb I'm putting in a 74 Barracuda. It's something I've wanted to do all my life, building the car and engine. There's the kicker I know about as much as neurosurgery as I do building an engine, "and I'm not a neurosurgeon". So I found the engine then I found the car. Well the car is sitting for now and the engine is first. About the engine, I've researched the hell out of it and so far I know it is a 383bb, it was manufactured in 71 on the noon shift, I am having a hell of a time figuring out if it is a "B" or an "RB", I read that all "RB's" are hemis, keep in mind everything I've said so far is just things I've read besides the 71 and 383bb, those I'm sure of, but as far as all RB's being hemis I don't know. I "think" the b's are short stroke and the rb's are long, but again I'm not sure. I've found the numbers 2468130-4, 3-19-71, g383-e and 6-25 all on the engine block. If anyone knows anything about all this please let me know. By the way thanks, and I'm sure you'll all be hearing a whole lot from me. thanks again, bird p.s I also found the number 4 all by itself the 2468130-4 is in the casting along with the clock symbol, and the g383-e with 6-25 were under it and it was located in front of the block right behind the distributor.

The 383's 400's are B blocks or low decks. The 413,426 wedge, 440 are RB blocks but are not Hemis. The stroke is shorter on the B than in the RB's The older hemi's ( not the Newer 5.7's or 6.1's) were also 426's RB from the factory but had Hemisherical combution chambers ( a completely different animal. Though Chrysler, Plymouth and Doge did make a bunch of different Hemi's from the 50's on.

highly recommend

2468130-4
383, fourth casting

3-19-71
Casting date 3/19/1971

g383-e
1971 383, (g = 1971), not sure what the e is for

6-25
Assembly date 6/25/1971

The g in front of the 383 means 1971 and the e that follows could be cast crank. The 383 was discontinued in 1971 to make way for the 400 (same stroke as the 383) and I heard that some 69-71 383's 2 barrels came with a cast crank but most 383's from the early 60's to 71 were forged. The only way of knowing for sure is to look at the crank, it's easy to tell the difference between cast and forged steel which is really what you want if you intend to spin this 383 to the high RPM's it's capable of IMO anyway.

It had the 383 w / two barrel but it had the cast crank. Be sure to identify which crank so you can be sure to use the torque converter that has the proper weight's on it. If you don't want to fool with the proper toqure converter, you can always find a steel crank. Either way, I would have the engine balanced at a machine shop to ensure longevity. Not to mention, well I guess I am mentioning, that an engine that is better balanced, isn't robbing HP to run itself. If I remember, the balance only cost about $150.

I have the same block as you , it is a 383 cast crank. You can use the crank, but don't go too wild with the build, definitely replace the pistons with aftermarket higher compression, you can get pistons for stock stroke, stock rods and stroke, or 440 rods with stock stroke, or you can do what I did. I used the block, a 440 crank, stock rods, and Diamond stroker pistons, I now have about 432 cu in stroker. If you did the same with a 400 block, you get 446. Or, you can go with 440 Source stroker kit and end up with almost 500 cu in.

Obviously, money talks. If you stay stock with better pistons, about $350, 432 cu in will cost you about $1100, 500 cu in will cost you $2000. Of course, this is just for the rotating assembly, machine work and other rebuild parts will cost you more.

Since the cuda is a one of a kind no # match car, i would do the 440 crank option and have a very strong 383 block build Good info here and a great way to go too.

If you wanna keep it a 383, I have a very nice 383 steel standard crankshaft. It may run standard, but I know it will clean up at 10-10. I am not gonna use it. I will give you a good deal on it.