how much power can it handle?

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hw612

The Mopar Martian.
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twin cities, MN
how much power can my 78 rv 440 BLOCK take?
ill have 500 horse on motor but thinking about 150 shot of goofy gas:happy10:
 
They can usually take about 700 hp without too much issue. Hard filling them helps.

Make sure you have a good tune up if running juice.
 
Run the sumbitch til it blows slam apart then you'll know.
 
what about hypers? i have a forged crank, im gonna use ly rods for start but i might put in some chevy rods yeah i know chevy sucks, but we have a 70 nova with a 565ci 820horse motor that could argue. what is the length of the ly rods?
 
you're gonna have people tellin you hypers suck. they're idiots. hypoers set up like they are supposed to be will be badass. All you gotta watch is runnin um lean. don't do it. I like runnin my stuff rich anyway. rich=a cooler runnin engine. rich=a happier engine. lean=a hotter runnin engine. lean=burnt up engine parts. Cast or forged. the KB pistons have very specific top ring specs.as long as they're adhered to, and you dont try to lean it out like a frikkin blow torch, you'll not have a problem. true, you might could lean it on out and pick up a few tenths. but honestly, is it really worth it? I've seen people runnin 500 HP worth of Pro Shot Fogger on KB hypers season after season. the secret? run the beeotches rich. they WILL hold up. i dont care what the idiots say.
 
yeah i think running rich can do nothing but good, and if you have enough power anyways you shouldnt have to lean out and possibly hurt your motor to pick up a little performance.
LY rod length anyone?
 
yeah i think running rich can do nothing but good, and if you have enough power anyways you shouldnt have to lean out and possibly hurt your motor to pick up a little performance.
LY rod length anyone?

6.765" just like all 440 rods.
 
i think if you use the manufactures recommended jetting you'll be just a bit on the rich side and all will be good. running too rich is as bad as too lean. sheevy rods are shorter then the 440 rods and you'll loose the good rod to stroke ratio the mopars have for making torque.
 
you're gonna have people tellin you hypers suck. they're idiots. hypoers set up like they are supposed to be will be badass. All you gotta watch is runnin um lean. don't do it. I like runnin my stuff rich anyway. rich=a cooler runnin engine. rich=a happier engine. lean=a hotter runnin engine. lean=burnt up engine parts. Cast or forged. the KB pistons have very specific top ring specs.as long as they're adhered to, and you dont try to lean it out like a frikkin blow torch, you'll not have a problem. true, you might could lean it on out and pick up a few tenths. but honestly, is it really worth it? I've seen people runnin 500 HP worth of Pro Shot Fogger on KB hypers season after season. the secret? run the beeotches rich. they WILL hold up. i dont care what the idiots say.

You're right.
Running lean is as bad as running the crankcase 2 quarts low.
It'll give you more power, but at what cost?
1 or 2 jet sizes is enough, let's not get crazy here.
 
You're right.
Running lean is as bad as running the crankcase 2 quarts low.
It'll give you more power, but at what cost?
1 or 2 jet sizes is enough, let's not get crazy here.

Absolutely right. I wasn't suggertin he jet to where it's dumpin black smoke out. LOL Just rich as a stock setup would be fine. Percentage wise, I mean. the stockers always ran a little rich. Reckon the factory knew what they were doin? Nah........
 
i think if you use the manufactures recommended jetting you'll be just a bit on the rich side and all will be good. running too rich is as bad as too lean. sheevy rods are shorter then the 440 rods and you'll loose the good rod to stroke ratio the mopars have for making torque.
wont the nitrous and however many cubes the .030 over adds make up for the loss of the torque?
 
If you're running nitrous or boost, you've got to be careful, as these can heat up the top ring (causing it to butt and seize, breaking the top ring land) or detonate excessively hard, potentially fracturing the piston.

You need the proper tune and that the top ring land is so close to the crown you'll have to run a really wide gap on #1 compression ring, or the ends will butt together, and the result is this:

Ford.jpg
 
Chevy rods are also too narrow on the big end. Your crank journal is wider so your side gap gets way over spec. IE you loose all your oil out the side of the rods and---- don't ask me how I know this. Early H-beam rods for BB Chry were made from chevy forgings. after finish you had sometimes as much as .050 or more side clearance and OOPS no oil PSI. Stock is
.017 You needed a very large volume pump to flow enough oil to build PSI.
By the way, pumps DO NOT put out pressure. They put out volume, when the volume overcomes demand (leakage) resistance builds pressure. The spring and valve dump
volume at a set pressure. Even engineers get this one wrong. That is why a worn out engine has low oil PSI. Use chevy rods with the wrong side clearance you just built yourself a new worn out engine plus the other issues.
Have a good day all,
Rick
 
Tuned my last sport bike a bit on the lean side, 100k miles with no issues. Never ran hot. Dynoed before tune at 87hp. after tuning made 97 on the same dyno. If you looked at the plugs from before the tune they looked spot on, but I just had to mess with it. Lean is not necessarily bad, as long as it is not real lean. The 100k miles the bike endured was ALOT of full throttle, run it it to just shy of the rev limiter type of stuff. Keep in mind no nitrous/boost. And the crackle out the exhaust of it being a bit on the lean side was just way to cool. Oh yeah, the bike also had an ignition advancer on it....
 
Chevy rods are also too narrow on the big end. Your crank journal is wider so your side gap gets way over spec. IE you loose all your oil out the side of the rods and---- don't ask me how I know this. Early H-beam rods for BB Chry were made from chevy forgings. after finish you had sometimes as much as .050 or more side clearance and OOPS no oil PSI. Stock is
.017 You needed a very large volume pump to flow enough oil to build PSI.
By the way, pumps DO NOT put out pressure. They put out volume, when the volume overcomes demand (leakage) resistance builds pressure. The spring and valve dump
volume at a set pressure. Even engineers get this one wrong. That is why a worn out engine has low oil PSI. Use chevy rods with the wrong side clearance you just built yourself a new worn out engine plus the other issues.
Have a good day all,
Rick

Tuned my last sport bike a bit on the lean side, 100k miles with no issues. Never ran hot. Dynoed before tune at 87hp. after tuning made 97 on the same dyno. If you looked at the plugs from before the tune they looked spot on, but I just had to mess with it. Lean is not necessarily bad, as long as it is not real lean. The 100k miles the bike endured was ALOT of full throttle, run it it to just shy of the rev limiter type of stuff. Keep in mind no nitrous/boost. And the crackle out the exhaust of it being a bit on the lean side was just way to cool. Oh yeah, the bike also had an ignition advancer on it....

If you're running nitrous or boost, you've got to be careful, as these can heat up the top ring (causing it to butt and seize, breaking the top ring land) or detonate excessively hard, potentially fracturing the piston.

You need the proper tune and that the top ring land is so close to the crown you'll have to run a really wide gap on #1 compression ring, or the ends will butt together, and the result is this.
i go to school for 6 hours and learn nothing, come home and in 5 minutes learn this... thanks guys
 
hw612,
I graduated from Roosevelt class of 78. GO TEDDIES!!! Maroon & Gold all the way!
I worked for Action auto 76,77,78 24th ave & 38th street.
PM me, like to know whats happin'n in the old hood.
Im jones'in for some Ted Cooks ribs bought now.
Now you went and done it, 1200 miles for a fix.
OK, need to see Betty at the Cardinal now Too!
Take care,
Rick

NITROTRIP all the way
 
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