SL6 will not start with the key.

-
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando, Fl
I have a 64 Valiant, I had the motor rebuilt and put it in a few days ago. Before I had it rebuilt it started up just fine just didn't sound so good. We got every thing in and hooked up now the dog-gone thing will not start with the key. Just makes a click at the relay. Some times when you turn the key to off position the voltage regulator makes a click. I can jump the starter with a screwdriver and the starter will turn. I have replaced the starter relay, the balast resister, battery, starter and the ignition switch. I thought it might be the neutral safety switch but a guy told me to ground it to the battery negative post and if it still didn't start that it wasn't the switch. not sure how right he is. When I installed the engine the car was at a slant on my driveway I ask my wife to put the push button tranny in neutral from the park position in order to install converter bolts in doing so the car lerched backwards, could this have something to do with why it will not start with the key like maybe its not in the park position? My knowledge of electrical trouble shooting is basic. Any thing you can tell would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me nuts. Thanks, Jerry
 
I would think if it will turn over by jumpimg the starter reley, that is the problem. Maybe a wire not connected correct.
Use meter to check the wire from ing switch to reley, if no power bad switch. just a few things. even if you put a new reley in it may not be good either.
Just my $.01 worth.
 
If the relay clicks, its working. Buy a starter.
 
If the relay clicks, its working. Buy a starter.


duh....!!! WRONG !!!...


The relay can "click" meaning the coil is working, and so the switch, wiring and neutral safety switch is OK

BUT IT CAN BE OTHER PROBLEMS.

The relay contacts can be bad---

You say "you can jump the starter" Do you mean RIGHT AT the starter?

If so, try this:

Jump across the solenoid RIGHT AT the starter and confirm the starter cranks.

Now jump across the two exposed terminals on the relay. If the starter cranks.......

Wiggle the wiring harness at the starter to make sure it's not broken inside.

If it won't crank at the relay, then you KNOW it's the wiring to the starter
 
duh....!!! WRONG !!!...


The relay can "click" meaning the coil is working, and so the switch, wiring and neutral safety switch is OK

BUT IT CAN BE OTHER PROBLEMS.

The relay contacts can be bad---

That's true. One in a million maybe.
Ignore me and try everything else first, then buy a starter.
 
Thanks for the info. Got that problem solved thanks to SlantSixDan. It was a bad wire from the relay to the starter.
New problem: It runs a little on the hot side and there seems to be a thump like hitting a hollow log on the passenger side around the fuel pump. Could this be the fuel pump? I replaced everything except the furl pump. Any ideas??
 
It was a bad wire from the relay to the starter. ..

gee, hope Redfish is listening

As for your thump, IF it's the pump area, I'm not familar with /6's Does it use a separate drive cam bolted on? could be loose. Pushrod? Could be worn. Yup, could be pump. Easiest is to pull the pump off and run a short time to find out
 
Pump eccentric is integral to the cam, not bolted on. hollow-log knock-knock-knock could be the fuel pump; run the engine long enough to fill the carburetor, shut it off, unbolt the fuel pump and run it again. If the knock goes away, it was the pump. If it's really bothering you, pursue it; if not, leave it be, it's not hurting anything. Knock can also be camshaft walk. Knock can also be faulty (sagged/old or sloppy/new) motor mount(s). Good luck with the pump replacement; many of the ones presently available are junk from China. Carry a fire extinguisher!
 
Pump eccentric is integral to the cam, not bolted on. hollow-log knock-knock-knock could be the fuel pump; run the engine long enough to fill the carburetor, shut it off, unbolt the fuel pump and run it again. If the knock goes away, it was the pump. If it's really bothering you, pursue it; if not, leave it be, it's not hurting anything. Knock can also be camshaft walk. Knock can also be faulty (sagged/old or sloppy/new) motor mount(s). Good luck with the pump replacement; many of the ones presently available are junk from China. Carry a fire extinguisher!

2x on the fire extinguisher! i almost lost the dart to an electrical fire
 
Pump eccentric is integral to the cam, not bolted on. hollow-log knock-knock-knock could be the fuel pump; run the engine long enough to fill the carburetor, shut it off, unbolt the fuel pump and run it again. If the knock goes away, it was the pump. If it's really bothering you, pursue it; if not, leave it be, it's not hurting anything. Knock can also be camshaft walk. Knock can also be faulty (sagged/old or sloppy/new) motor mount(s). Good luck with the pump replacement; many of the ones presently available are junk from China. Carry a fire extinguisher!
Auto Zone is still carrying a fuel pump that is made in Ohio. They list it as Premuim i think. This was current as of about 1 year ago.
Frank
 
Great! Thanks guys for all the information. You have really helped us a lot. My husband is a Chevy guy (72 Nova) and it has been years since he worked on a slant 6.
Slantsix Dan you're the man!! LOL! This is Jerry's wife.
 
So Jerry's wife. I would guess the Valiant is your's? SInce he is a Chebby guy!! BTW I don't think there is a rule that says you can not post your name:-D.
 
check ground to block if that doesnt fix it check that relay wiggling it usualy works
 
Well bad news guys...the engine is making unfriendly noise. We are having the people that rebuilt it come next week to find out what's wrong and to fix it or you know what is going to break loose! We are NOT pulling that motor again!! What a nightmare.
LOL,
Jerry's Wife
 
I took a compression test and the #2 cylinder showed 0. So I removed the valve cover and discovered the valve was stuck in it's guide. Also push rod was bent, lifter was out of it's bore. The rebuild guy came and confirmed valve got stuck in it's guide which cause this chain reaction. I rapped on the valve with a hammer when spring was up, valve sank first two shots and then started bouncing as it should. We were able to put the lifter back in it's bore. Now he is on the hunt for a push rod and will try a restart before we go to the next step and pull the head. Pray or cross your finger which ever one you do! LOL!

Is there any know way to add clearance between valve stem and valve guide without pulling the head? Lube etc.?

((It was amazing to me that he put that lifter back in it's guide without taking the head off!! Jerry's Wife))
 
Valves don't just get "stuck in the guide." There is a reason. Either the valve is/ got bent, or whoever rebuilt the head did something wrong, like the valve guide is too tight.

I'd be 'fer yankin the head and inspecting it. Maybe that pushrod/ rocker was never seated right, maybe the valve contacted the piston and bent it, I donnoo. But I can tell you this:

I'd be pullin' the head off
 
All I can suggest is a stronger valve spring. Lets hope that valve isn't bent. Good luck
 
67Dart273, that's great that you figured out the problem, well done! On the other hand, RedFish always tries to help everyone, let's not make this site a 'I'm right, you're wrong, haha laugh in your face' place, sound good?
 
Sounds good to me. I just really appreciated ALL the information and advice I received. By the way the head is going back to the re builder to have it checked out completely. Don't want to be on the road or at a car show and have trouble.
 
I appreciate all the advice and information I received. This forum has been most helpful. By the way I decided to send the head back for a complete over haul to be sure there are no more problems. I don't want to be at a car show or on the road and break down.
 
Alert!! If you buy a project car and it has been sitting for a while check your gas tank to make sure it is clean and the old fuel has not turn to varnish!! This seems to be the root of all my recent problems. I am replacing the tank and any thing connected to it. Thanks for all the help from my mopar friends.
 
-
Back
Top