Buffing/wet sanding advice needed

My dart needs buffing or wet sanding and I was wondering where to start.
It's a non-metalic light blue with a dark blue top, no clear coat. No oxidation
to speak of but looks like starlings on prune juice graced it at one time. There are so many products on the market I don't really know where to
start. I'm not expecting miracles but don't want to leave it like it is or end
up with a bunch of swirls.

Also, the barn it was in had a small leak and there is a paint chip and rust
spot about half the size of a dime below the rear window. How should I
address the rust so I can apply some touch-up paint. Thanks.

I would go the norton web site and get the three step system to compond the paint.Its very easy and you need a variable speed buffing grinder,to do it.if you have this ,the step by step instructions makes for a great job,Mrmopartech

If that's the original paint, be very careful about wet sanding. The paint isn't very thick and is probably not-catalized Enamel which doesn't take kindly to sanding. Scott's advice about the Norton compounding products is very good.

If it's really from bird crap you may have a problem getting it out, typically it eats right into your paint leaving it sort of pitted. I would take it to your local Shine Factory type place and ask them for their opinion, they buff cars all day every day and will have a very good idea on this. If they say they can fix it you may just want to go that route if you don't have the tools and products. If you want to do it yourself, I use Norton Liquid Ice and think it's great, I've also heard great things about System One and you need a good rotary buffer, probably $80 for the buffing product and $100-$200 for a buffer. Be very careful around edges, you can burn through in a heartbeat. If your paint is old it will be very hard and sanding scratches may be hard to get out, so I would try buffing first and see where that gets you. If you have to sand don't get very aggressive with it for that reason, nothing coarser than 2000 grit on old paint in my opinion.

The rust problem is a pain, ideally you want to sand blast it, I have a mini spot blaster that you put over the metal and it can isolate a spot the size of your fingernail, barring that you can try to hand sand as best you can and maybe try a rust converter to neutrilize what you couldn't sand out of the pitts. Epoxy prime it and then paint it. Unfortunatley it will only look ok from 10 feet or further unless you really go all out and try to blend it properly which is best left for the pros.

I would just buff it out, Single stage will shine up pretty good with a nice compound and glaze. I used Ardex 1500 compound on mine and will glaze it with Ardex Seal B when I get a chance. The 3M Perfect it or Finess it lines are also good. Tape off what you dont want to hit with the buffer or remove it if you can. Work small 2 foot ares at a time at a low speed. I try not to compound at more then 1500 rpms. Then give it a real good coat of wax when your done.

Thanks for the advice.

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

good site

3M Perfect It...works wonders...lol.

The 3M is nice, I really like the Ardex stuff though and its cheaper. About $30 for a gallon of compound or glaze.

AdamR said:

The 3M is nice, I really like the Ardex stuff though and its cheaper. About $30 for a gallon of compound or glaze.

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That is cheaper. The last bottle of Perfect It was close to $30 for I think about 1/2 gallon. The tall bottle about 3.5" in diameter. At least it lasts a while.