hurst vertical gate

mshred,
I forgot to mention the over throw stop bolts. Back them off before you
start. Adjust the complete shifter without them FIRST. Make shure everything
works smooth and how you want it. Then to adjust the over throw stop bolts,
hold the shifter handle snug in gear and turn the bolt on that lever in to touch
the lever. Back off the bolt( 3/8-16) 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it down. Then do the next gear. You only need to make stop bolts for 2nd-3rd-4th. You don't hammer first so no real need. This is what has worked for me. If you set your stop bolts to touch the
lever at rest in gear you will bounce out of gear on a hard shift. There to keep from
damaging a fork from diabolicle--diabalikle--dablickel-- race thrashing.
There are'nt many of us gear grabbers any more. Nothing like a perfect 7000rpm
manual shift!! Nice to hear "How you old guy's shift like that!!"
Also, you need your clutch disengagement at full pedal down, .040min to .060 clearance
measured with a feeler guage between the disk and pressure plate. More and you are over traveling and waisting motion, less and windage will drag your input shaft and make it shift hard. Free travel at the top meens nothing, what you have at the disk at bottom
is where the action takes place. Borg & Beck roller always worked fastest for me, the diafram style seemed lazy to re-engage. Not near as fast off the bottom. Lighter yes but was not as consistant at the light for me. Just preferance I guess.
Take care and have fun,
Rick