Sorry I didn't jump right on posting a reply - Thursday is "bowling night", my one night out of the house during the week.
Anyway, sounds like you have a good start on your suspension with the right components. But just because you have all the right parts doesn't mean they're working together. It's gonna take some trial and error testing to find the right combination of settings to maximize all the components for either the strip or the street - can't do both.
When using an adjustable pinion snubber, don't forget to reinforce the floor where the pinion snubber comes in contact. You'll end up with a concave floor if you don't reinforce it.
You may already know the following and, if so, I apologize for wasting time on it: You say you've already "lowered the front to get good weight travel when taking off". Just lowering the front end won't do that. Classic 'old school' methods of improving weight transfer for drag racing includes using slant-six torsion bars and either worn-out shocks, dedicated 90/10 shocks, or adjustable shocks on the front end to allow it to rise quickly upon initial acceleration and then slowly return to an approximate 2-degree nose-down attitude during the run. The quick front end rise at throttle hit moves the center-of-gravity rearward and transfers weight to the rear to help plant the tires - working in conjunction with your SS springs, longer rear shocks, and adjustable pinion snubber. Works on the dragstrip but not the hottest and best handling combo for the street.
Moving your heavy battery from the engine compartment to the passenger-side trunk area behind the rear wheelwell will also help move weight to the best possible area to help plant your rear tires.
This is all 'old-school' Mopar stuff. But, hey, I'm 'old-school' since I first tried to do the street-strip thing in my '69 340 Swinger back in the very early '70s. What I've learned in the years since, that people told me back then but I wouldn't believe, is that you can't have it both ways. You either maximize for the street or for the strip. Anything else is just a compromise.
Back to the brake topic - if, as you previously said, you're doing it for the "cool factor" then go ahead and buy $500 worth of "cool". Just don't expect results that aren't going to be there.
