Rallye Dash Resto
I stripped my dash plastic using Castrol Super Clean degreaser. I made a box out of wood and lined it with a plastic trash bag. Let the dash soak overnight and use a tooth brush and warm water to clean off the old plating. I primed and painted the dash semi-gloss black. Then I masked off the surround for the gauges, controls, and the upper section. I sprayed the "chrome" areas with DupliColor chrome. While it looks OK, it's much cheaper than the $300 re-chroming cost. As for the mention of using the modeling foil I wouldn't trust it over time as it will probably loosen up over time with the heat. Not to mention at several dollars a sheet it will probably cost you $60 or better for the foil!
If your restoring your car for serious judging in stock classes, go with the plating. If your building a Hot Rod or street fighter, paint it.
I also lost the radio opening and did a photo-reverse image for the white gauge faces. The bottom is trimmed in faux carbon fiber.
I stripped my dash plastic using Castrol Super Clean degreaser. I made a box out of wood and lined it with a plastic trash bag. Let the dash soak overnight and use a tooth brush and warm water to clean off the old plating. I primed and painted the dash semi-gloss black. Then I masked off the surround for the gauges, controls, and the upper section. I sprayed the "chrome" areas with DupliColor chrome. While it looks OK, it's much cheaper than the $300 re-chroming cost. As for the mention of using the modeling foil I wouldn't trust it over time as it will probably loosen up over time with the heat. Not to mention at several dollars a sheet it will probably cost you $60 or better for the foil!
If your restoring your car for serious judging in stock classes, go with the plating. If your building a Hot Rod or street fighter, paint it.
I also lost the radio opening and did a photo-reverse image for the white gauge faces. The bottom is trimmed in faux carbon fiber.
