Ok so lets really talk K-members here Folks

What I've been able to glean from all these K discussions:

With the stock K frame weighing in around 30-35 pounds, the amount of weight lost by going to ANY tubular K frame is not going to amount to much.

Loosing the fully sprung factory torsion bars and going with amy other springing device (I. E. coilovers and/or A arms) will actually INCREASE the unsprung weight.

Going to a power steering rack can possibly save weight off the stock power steering chuck, but it is sprung weight you'd be saving, and not nearly as important as reducing unsprung weight. The stock steering chuck weight on the front end can be more than offset by using more aluminum components on the engine (cylinder heads, intake manifold, etc.).

The stock power steering chuck when rebuilt by Firm Feel or others can be the equal of any rack setup as far as steering feel and/or response.

It's really difficult to out engineer the factory design of what was/is a really good design rarely equaled or exceeded by the competition. The Pinto/Mustang II suspension for one is often touted as a really good design and is said to be similar to the '60 and later Mopar suspension in the basic geometry parameters (roll centers, swing arm length, etc.) and vastly superior to the then contemporary offerings of GM.

Most here feel gouged by aftermarket Mopar suppliers as compared to suppliers for other brands. Good luck with that one. Living in the most litigious society on the planet where winning a lawsuit is like winning the lottery, and living in a country where government at every level is reaching ever so more deeply into the pockets of it's citizenry and most especially it's small business community, is it any wonder a small volume vender (I'm utterly amazed Jamie Passon can design and build a new transmission, charge roughly 10% over his actual manufacturing costs, recoup his development costs, and still make enough profit to stay in business) would need to charge more just to have a little left over at the end of the day to take home to the family.

The main reason most want to use a tubular K frame is packaging (more room for headers mostly) and/or the abandonment of the stock torsion bar setup (again mostly accommodation of header or other engine components). What I haven't seen anyone address yet, but perhaps might be the better solution would be removing most all of the stock K frame pinch flange and possibly narrowing the main K crossmember considerably along with adding a brace across the open side of the K just ahead of the bellhousing like the Mustang crowd. Of course, you're still on your own in building headers to take advantage of any new found space.

All in all, if you make the investment of a good TIG setup, tube bender, and notcher, make the effort to build a sturdy, accurate fixture table, and rig all the components in place to make an accurate assembly jig, locate a local tubing supplier willing to work with you so you're not spending a fortune in raw materials and transportation costs, and spend the time to really learn the techniques and procedures needed to build a quality product that won't kill someone or get your butt sued, not to mention acquiring just short of a degree in engineering to get the suspension parameters correct if you modify any from stock, you can build yourself a tubular K frame. Just be prepared to spend far more initially than the cost of even the most expensive ones out there, and recognize that you're going to be building a few to recoup your investment.