POR15, undercoat, or sprayon bedliner?

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BlueSwinger said:
After asking 67Dart440GT more specifically about what he did, I think I'm going to to with the epoxy primer on the rest of what I have to do as well, rather than just the straight product on top of metal. With the Eastwood product on top of that (on areas that will be hidden anyway).

This is a good thread, lots of good ideas & thoughts here.
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Oh yea, interesting, so the epoxy is the bonding agent to the metal, then the eastwood over that for heavy durability.. there must be a time window to apply eastwood over epoxy primer for proper chemical adhesion if that is even possible.. hmm, I believe por15 says not to put their product over other products.
 
Rice Nuker said:
Oh yea, interesting, so the epoxy is the bonding agent to the metal, then the eastwood over that for heavy durability.. there must be a time window to apply eastwood over epoxy primer for proper chemical adhesion if that is even possible.. hmm, I believe por15 says not to put their product over other products.
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I should have been more specific, sorry. I haven't read the Eastwood info yet myself, but he said epoxy primer, let it dry a little, then used the Eastwood chassis black. Not the rust encapsulator, that may be different, as that's supposed to be over the bare metal.

I still think the rust encapsulator products are fine if the metal is prepped right, but I will have a live experiment going on, so I'll find out.
 
Nice, so Chassis Black must be the tough stuff. Would be nice to have a super durable coating on every damd thing and get by with out clumpy looking undercoating..
 
Rice Nuker said:
Oh yea, interesting, so the epoxy is the bonding agent to the metal, then the eastwood over that for heavy durability.. there must be a time window to apply eastwood over epoxy primer for proper chemical adhesion if that is even possible.. hmm, I believe por15 says not to put their product over other products.
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you have a 12 hour window to apply your top coat other wise you need to scuff the surface
 
Rice Nuker said:
Nice, so Chassis Black must be the tough stuff. Would be nice to have a super durable coating on every damd thing and get by with out clumpy looking undercoating..
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chassis black is what gm's used show me how well that worked i don't know of any gm guy that hasn't layed awake at night listening to his car rust

undercoating does not have to be clumpy and it doesn't have to be put on heavy that's just the mantallity of the people hired to be a rustproof junkie it's called "i'm just putting in my time," or "what do you expect for what they pay me"
 
rapidtransitric said:
chassis black is what gm's used show me how well that worked i don't know of any gm guy that hasn't layed awake at night listening to his car rust

undercoating does not have to be clumpy and it doesn't have to be put on heavy that's just the mantallity of the people hired to be a rustproof junkie it's called "i'm just putting in my time," or "what do you expect for what they pay me"
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RiceNuker: The Chassis Black I refer to is just the Eastwood Chassis Black paint... look it up on their website. Maybe it doesn't need to be the Eastwood, I'm just going based on a recommendation. I have no idea. I'm still going to use the rust encapsulator on the sandblasted underbody though.

Rapidtransitric: Maybe I missed it, and I apologize if so, but what, specifically, do you recommend for each area? Underbody, wheel wells/inner fenders/insides of fenders, and the topsides of floor pans, specifically?

We've had quite a few recommendations so far, and maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but it seems to me like you're saying they're all bad. So... what are your recommendations for finishes in those areas? Just undercoating? Or epoxy primer, then what? (The Eastwood chassis black is just paint... so if paint, what sort of paint?)... ??? Thanks!
 
Rice Nuker said:
I think you are referring to topcoating the POR15 or Eastwood with something else. I was echoing the prior post regarding topcoating the epoxy primer with the Eastwood for a hard outer shell.
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no once you apply you epoxy primer you have 12 hours to apply whatever on top of that to get your required adhesion
 
My preference is to strip it to bare metal, apply two coats of Ospho and then paint 8)

Rickster
 
BlueSwinger said:
RiceNuker: The Chassis Black I refer to is just the Eastwood Chassis Black paint... look it up on their website. Maybe it doesn't need to be the Eastwood, I'm just going based on a recommendation. I have no idea. I'm still going to use the rust encapsulator on the sandblasted underbody though.

Rapidtransitric: Maybe I missed it, and I apologize if so, but what, specifically, do you recommend for each area? Underbody, wheel wells/inner fenders/insides of fenders, and the topsides of floor pans, specifically?

We've had quite a few recommendations so far, and maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but it seems to me like you're saying they're all bad. So... what are your recommendations for finishes in those areas? Just undercoating? Or epoxy primer, then what? (The Eastwood chassis black is just paint... so if paint, what sort of paint?)... ??? Thanks!
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ok on bare metal. first before you do anything epoxy prime even before body filler. when you sand your body filler and you break through to bare metal, again epoxy prime and so on your sandwiching in your repairs this is the absolute best method of repair, that epoxy bites right into the metal once it has adhered it self to the metal it is hard to chip or scratch off. don't get me wrong you get a stone flying up at you with enough speed or force you will chip it but only after you dent it. anyway any time through your repair work you hit bare metal recoat the bare metal with epoxy when your done then you prime your work with a urathane pimer surfacer now you block sand and prep for paint. then you seal the car complete with epoxy primer. no w you can paint it, under coat it or use your por 15 but now the metal is protected in the best of all ways. for the wheelwells epoxyprime and undercoat. underside of floor epoxy prime cailk your seams and epoxy your caulk under coat if you like inside floor epoxy prime, caulk your seams epoxy your caulk and paint the body color now you have done everything to protect your repairs and the metal. this is a long process but well worth it for your investment. in a production shop you would epoxy seal only after the repairs are done
 
PPG's DPLF has a 7 day window to top coat after that a scuff is needed.
 
rapidtransitric said:
ok on bare metal. first before you do anything epoxy prime even before body filler. when you sand your body filler and you break through to bare metal, again epoxy prime and so on your sandwiching in your repairs this is the absolute best method of repair, that epoxy bites right into the metal once it has adhered it self to the metal it is hard to chip or scratch off. don't get me wrong you get a stone flying up at you with enough speed or force you will chip it but only after you dent it. anyway any time through your repair work you hit bare metal recoat the bare metal with epoxy when your done then you prime your work with a urathane pimer surfacer now you block sand and prep for paint. then you seal the car complete with epoxy primer. no w you can paint it, under coat it or use your por 15 but now the metal is protected in the best of all ways. for the wheelwells epoxyprime and undercoat. underside of floor epoxy prime cailk your seams and epoxy your caulk under coat if you like inside floor epoxy prime, caulk your seams epoxy your caulk and paint the body color now you have done everything to protect your repairs and the metal. this is a long process but well worth it for your investment. in a production shop you would epoxy seal only after the repairs are done
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The main reason for applying Epoxy before filler is because filler heats up as it cures and can cause the steel to condisate causing rust to form this elminates that chance. Fillers are designed to adhire to metals so putting down epoxy first isnt for adhesion reasons. I personally always epoxy before filler.
 
4404spd said:
The main reason for applying Epoxy before filler is because filler heats up as it cures and can cause the steel to condisate causing rust to form this elminates that chance. Fillers are designed to adhire to metals so putting down epoxy first isnt for adhesion reasons. I personally always epoxy before filler.
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then you do it right
 
rapidtransitric said:
yeah it's the reducer that slows it down you use 870 as a rule?
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Dont much matter once they took the lead out they recommened 2 coats 4hr air dry time before top coating. It just the DT really lets the Epoxy lay flat for a better surface to paint on.
 
rapidtransitric said:
free for now, will cost you tenfold later
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Truck is long gone.....as well as his bedliner business. Someone offered him double for just the equipment than what he paid for the equipment and the trailer it was on...
 
4404spd said:
Dont much matter once they took the lead out they recommened 2 coats 4hr air dry time before top coating. It just the DT really lets the Epoxy lay flat for a better surface to paint on.
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i understand the dt for the flow has your rep ever recommended adding a super charger?
 
rapidtransitric said:
ok on bare metal. first before you do anything epoxy prime even before body filler. when you sand your body filler and you break through to bare metal, again epoxy prime and so on your sandwiching in your repairs this is the absolute best method of repair, that epoxy bites right into the metal once it has adhered it self to the metal it is hard to chip or scratch off. don't get me wrong you get a stone flying up at you with enough speed or force you will chip it but only after you dent it. anyway any time through your repair work you hit bare metal recoat the bare metal with epoxy when your done then you prime your work with a urathane pimer surfacer now you block sand and prep for paint. then you seal the car complete with epoxy primer. no w you can paint it, under coat it or use your por 15 but now the metal is protected in the best of all ways. for the wheelwells epoxyprime and undercoat. underside of floor epoxy prime cailk your seams and epoxy your caulk under coat if you like inside floor epoxy prime, caulk your seams epoxy your caulk and paint the body color now you have done everything to protect your repairs and the metal. this is a long process but well worth it for your investment. in a production shop you would epoxy seal only after the repairs are done
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Cool, thanks for taking the time to write this. Sounds like I'll be on the right track now. Thanks for all the advice. :thumbup:
 
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