torsion bar adjuster

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Dead End Kid1

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I've read thru a lot of posts, but none of them talk about the T.B. adjuster being a pain to loosen..strut rods-yes, upper bal joints-yes. But not the adjuster. P.B. Blaster and now a 2 foot breaker bar I can loosen it, but almost to the point of pulling the '67 B-cuda off the jack stands. It wasn't my intent to remove the T-Bars. I'm trying to get the spindle off. I know I could put a floor jack under the spindle and do it that way, but agree with other posts, it's just not worth the risk. Should I just muscle it out, or does someone have a better idea?
 
I had a friend actually break one of these off one time so I'd be carefull. If it does break replacements are available & not too expensive. I would try using something like PB Blaster on both ends of the adjuster & turning it back & forth. A little one way & then a little the other way. The idea is to get the lube worked down into the threaded area where the binding is occurring. Keep applying the lube & hopefully you'll be able to go a little bit farther each time. I've had pretty good luck with this method on all sorts of difficult fasteners. I'd be a bit leery of going at it "whole-hog" with an impact gun. Sometimes that works & sometimes it doesn't. Good luck.
 
Have used a little torch with mapp gas
 
Yes, suspension is completely unloaded with the top bump top also removed. PB Blaster is in place, but did not try the back-forth manuver. I have a good 1/2" impact and I did try it...sparingly. Didn't appear that was going to get me to heaven, so thats when I got the longer breaker bar. Doesn't seem to be cross-threaded...just stubborn. I'll work at it with the breaker bar a little more before going for the mapp gas solution. I'm a big enough klutz I can see catching myself and the '67 on fire. :toothy10: thanks for the quick responses.
 
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