what guage wire?

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no1newb

no1newb

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Im considering redoing my wiring, with a higher amp alternator. what gauge wire do you guys suggest, im going to be looking to pretty much replace all of my wires and the bulkheads. any other suggestions would be appriciated since ill have everything torn apart already. and i already got the head light relays in the other thread.
 
Depending on how big of an alternator you are going to get would depend on the wire size of the alternator output wire. 60 to 100 amp. I would use 8 or 10 gauge.

I would not even run the alt. output into the vehicle like the factory did. I would run it to the starter relay like has been mentioned on previous threads. Also I would eliminated the ammeter and go to a volt meter.

I don't know if you need to actually eliminate the bulkhead connector so much as be sure the the terminal ends are all clean, not corroded and don't look like they have been overheated. Just eliminate the the alternator wire going into and out of the bulkhead connector is all. My .02 and I'm sure others will help you out here.
 
im probably going to switch to a 140amp, im going to eventually switch to electric cooling fan and electric fuel pump. so would 10 gauge work or should I go to 8. thanks
 
I'd use 8 ga, better safe than sorry. It will also help down the road if you decide to add more circuits.
 
I went 8 for a one wire 130 amp alt. Wire staight to the battery or make a junction block as I did and then pull a 4 gauge to the block:)
 
For 130 amps I would recommend at least a 6awg, and preferably a 4awg.

Remember there are a lot of things that effect how efficient your power transfer is. Length and quality of cable can reduce efficiency, as can the quality of the terminations.

Also, you want to size your cable so that you are only using 80% capacity to account for these issues. If you don't, you could be generating excess heat (resistance) and causing yourself an unwanted voltage drop.

I have a 140 amp Powermaster 1-wire alternator, and use 4awg to the positive buss, and then a 4awg to the starter and 1/0 to the battery in the trunk.
 
I,m doing almost the same thing but my wire between the ign terminal of the switch and the regulator looks like it has been hot. Its brittle and melted. When I run a 4 0r 6 to the starter relay since i,m using a one wire alternator can I run a new wire from the switch ign terminal direct to the ballast feeding the ignition coil? A simple diagram would really be apreciated.
 
I hope you ampmeter is a shunt type or you series ampmeter won't take the current,along with the firewall connections.
 
I canned the ammeter. Installing a voltmeter. what firewall connections? Rehashed the idea and running 16 gauge fron ign terminal of switch to msd box. Should only pull fire thru for instrument panel and switches. starting my own thread. sorry for the hijack
 
I use 16ga. (stranded) on everything except charging and starting circuits. 8 ga on the charging circuit and regular cables on starter/battery circuits.
 
MVRCorp said:
I use 16ga. (stranded) on everything except charging and starting circuits. 8 ga on the charging circuit and regular cables on starter/battery circuits.
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Hay Jim, 16 gauge isn't really big enough for the heater blower motor. My .02 And I hope you're running relays for the headlights.
 
When I wired my race car I didn't use anything under 12ga. All the main hot wires were 8 and 10ga.
 
nothingbutdarts said:
Hay Jim, 16 gauge isn't really big enough for the heater blower motor. My .02 And I hope you're running relays for the headlights.
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I hear ya on the blower motor, haven't got to that yet. The lights I do a little different. Relays yes, I run 2, one for low and one for high. When the lights are on, the low beams work, but when I hit the high beams the lows stay on and the high beams come on. It's not low or high it's low or both low and high. Makes a world of difference at night.
 
MVRCorp said:
Relays yes, I run 2, one for low and one for high. When the lights are on, the low beams work, but when I hit the high beams the lows stay on and the high beams come on. It's not low or high it's low or both low and high. Makes a world of difference at night.
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I always keep the high beam lever pulled by hand so that both beams are on all the time on my Jeep when using the highbeam side. You are so correct about the world of difference!
 
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