stereo questions?

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bayyum

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kay, im buying 2 18" subs for the five-one-0 and i would like to know, what kind of amp do i need? im looking a 5500 watt mono channel amp. or 4000 4 channel thats bridgable. im open to anything really, what do i need?
 
Yeah dude 5500 mono would be best, if you bridge em they can melt down real quick. And mono puts more wattage to the speakers so you would probly be fine.but id wire the amp too the subs alone and run all the remote n stuff. The cd deck is prolly enough for the 190 mids

Sye
 
DUDE:)

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1wuijgeaaY"]YouTube - Dude, Where's My Car (trailer)[/ame]
 
Can you translate all that in english??? lol
 
haha, its not so much that im going to play them loud. its more of something i can say "yea, well i have 2 18" subs in my truck" and a buddy is practically giving them to me.
 
what is the RMS on the subs ea?? go two channel and make sure you run the power line to the amp on the opposite side than the AV cables...

also mount the fuse right at the battery!
 
it says 8 ohms, and 2000 watts. and i may go 4-channel amp that'll work with it, what size should i get?
 
The charging system would be one thing I would worry about. Each time those subs hit they will be sucking power so the charging systems needs to be up for the task especially if you have the headlights lights on. The headlights will be strobing, capacitors will be needed also with that much wattage. Most likely you wont be able to play them loud for very long until the voltage gauge is buried on low and that's when problems start happening after that. Alternative is mount a high out put alternator ALONG with the stock alt ... very expensive alt. These type alts aren't sold at local parts stores. Im running a 2000watt system... just the sub woofers and it wrecks havoc on the stock system. I can only play it loud for so long until the volts needle drops and hit close to "critical" stage therefore I have to turn it down. Later model voltage regulators are located in the ECM which sucks because you cant change it up to keep throwing the volts out. This only true with Dodge however.
 
its going in a 91 f150, and i dont play my music loud at all. and will not be using near the max of bass. ill probably use very little considering i like country..
 
its going in a 91 f150, and i dont play my music loud at all. and will not be using near the max of bass. ill probably use very little considering i like country..

Country music sounds good on sub systems IF the amps are adjusted correctly. I have a friend who loves country music. He asked what my system sound like with country. I told him to hop in a take a listen. He liked it very much. I like to listen to Hank Jr myself on the aftermarket stereo system.

The number one mistake most of the time is the subs aren't adjusted correctly. I even have a hard time fine tuning the amps because I listen so many different types of music. This is when the bass boost control comes in handy and also the head unit equalizer.
 
they use capacitors to store energy till its needed. theres no way an alternator could keep up. when they hit they would drain the ignition system.
 
its going in a 91 f150, and i dont play my music loud at all. and will not be using near the max of bass. ill probably use very little considering i like country..

i can hear it now. 2000 watts of Cowboy Troy. lol
 
Country music sounds good on sub systems IF the amps are adjusted correctly. I have a friend who loves country music. He asked what my system sound like with country. I told him to hop in a take a listen. He liked it very much. I like to listen to Hank Jr myself on the aftermarket stereo system.

The number one mistake most of the time is the subs aren't adjusted correctly. I even have a hard time fine tuning the amps because I listen so many different types of music. This is when the bass boost control comes in handy and also the head unit equalizer.


the box or encloser the sub (s) are in makes a big difference to...
 
the box or encloser the sub (s) are in makes a big difference to...

Yep most subwoofers comes with a spec sheet that tells you what cubic inch range the sub box needs to be in order it achieve the best performance.

NOTE: I'm by no means a no it all... just what I've read on car audio forums and other car audio type information. When I built my system in my truck I studied and read before I bought the materials to build the boxes, amps, etc...
 
run a second battery and alt for your stereo, people have had thumping bass running around for a long time. if it were a problem you would see the same people miles down the road asking you for a jump. just like a race car with more electronics than one battery can handle.
 
hey guys. Well i decided that 2 12's would be plenty. so i went out and bought 2 with a 2400 watt amp for 200 bucks. i just need to build a box for the single cab. does anyone have any diagrams/dimensions for me to see/build? thanks in advance

Mike
 
Mike

What you need to do is build each box to recommended cubic inch of each subwoofer. I like sealed box because of the tighter bass. Below is one of many subwoofer calculators that will help you build the boxes. Building the boxes as a wedge (pickup truck) is more challenging but I built some for my Dodge Ram. Sounds good I think. This should get you on your way.

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
 
building/finding a box with correct dimensions to both fit and tuned to make the sub sound good are too different things. I see by this being your second post on this you didnt take the advice that was given in the last thread. Good thing you didnt get the 18's they are sloppy as hell and do not sound good with music. Good luck with your stereo. Post up the specs on the subs and amp.
 
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