Handling improvements Dodge Dart??

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dustoff440

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Already have the front factory sway bar with new bushings, have found an Addco 3/4 rear sway bar at summiy for a decent price, have KYB Gas Adjust shocks to install, still looking at 14 tires, selection is really limited, entire front end has been rebuilt. I don't want to shell out for aftermarket A frames. What else can I do (within a limited budget) to improve the cars handling characteristics?? The factory sbp ralleye rims are only 5.5 wide and I am hesitant to put a nine inch rear tire on that small a rim.. Your thoughts??
 
Would think frame connectors will help some, and when you put the rear sway bar on you are going to feel a big difference. Is you battery still in the factory "high" location ?
It can be put on top or close to the rear end. Just thinking.
 
wide tires on a narrow rim are very detrimental to handling
on stock rally rims 205/70-14 or 215/70-14 will give the best performance
 
Would think frame connectors will help some, and when you put the rear sway bar on you are going to feel a big difference. Is you battery still in the factory "high" location ?
It can be put on top or close to the rear end. Just thinking.

Forgot to mention frame connectors are in the works, Thanks
 
the 14" tires are gonna kill ya the most i'll bet.
I agree,...I've put 15's on most of the rods I've built along with suspension mods resulting in much improved handling,...I love the look of your ride as well,...see prev posts by GMachine...:study:
 
Good suspension starts with the proper spring rates - torsion bars and leaf springs. At this point, reinforcing the chassis is almost as important. What good is the proper spring rate if the chassis flexes every time the suspension compresses.

After that, sway bars add roll resistance. Some cars like the 108 wheelbase cars can get away with no rear bar. Here, quality shocks are also super important. The Bilsteins out there now are proper length, and pretty much a no brainer for the general build.

Geometry is also important. Stock upper arms with offset bushings are perfectly fine. Any other purchase is purely because you want to - not necessary. Proper alignment is something that is screwed up on a daily basis. That includes setting not only the regular toe, caster and camber, but leveling the ride height and squaring the chassis critical points. How many have done an alignmnet where the thrust angle is zero and front offset is zero? It take time, patients and a good machine and you can have a car that tracks well and drives great.

Last on the list is wheels and tires. If you think you are going to build a modern performance vehicle with 14s and 15s, forget it. The reality is that the cheapest car on the planet, will destroy you in any track event, pretty sad. My philosphy on building cars, is that if the car isn't usefull, reliable and better in every way than your daily driver cars, why bother? The only area where these cars will never excel at is being weather tight.
 
Good suspension starts with the proper spring rates - torsion bars and leaf springs. At this point, reinforcing the chassis is almost as important. What good is the proper spring rate if the chassis flexes every time the suspension compresses.

After that, sway bars add roll resistance. Some cars like the 108 wheelbase cars can get away with no rear bar. Here, quality shocks are also super important. The Bilsteins out there now are proper length, and pretty much a no brainer for the general build.

Geometry is also important. Stock upper arms with offset bushings are perfectly fine. Any other purchase is purely because you want to - not necessary. Proper alignment is something that is screwed up on a daily basis. That includes setting not only the regular toe, caster and camber, but leveling the ride height and squaring the chassis critical points. How many have done an alignmnet where the thrust angle is zero and front offset is zero? It take time, patients and a good machine and you can have a car that tracks well and drives great.

Last on the list is wheels and tires. If you think you are going to build a modern performance vehicle with 14s and 15s, forget it. The reality is that the cheapest car on the planet, will destroy you in any track event, pretty sad. My philosphy on building cars, is that if the car isn't usefull, reliable and better in every way than your daily driver cars, why bother? The only area where these cars will never excel at is being weather tight.

Offset bushings, that's not something I am familiar with?? I do have a set of 892/893 bars to put in and I am thinking I am going to have a local shop add a leaf in the rear springs and arch them to raise the rear about an inch. After I priced ss springs and other replacement springs I decided it would be cheaper to redo mine. I'm not hoping to keep up with my buddies NSX but would like to have a decent handling vehicle. The original Mopar swinger ad I have a copy of says that even with the HD front end and with those scrawny original belted tires on it that it would pull less than 3g's.
 
Unfortunately, there really isn't a cheap way to get these cars headed in the right direction. These builds are parts intensive. Personally, I do not think the OE bars, and having a local spring shop do your springs are good choices.
 
Unfortunately, there really isn't a cheap way to get these cars headed in the right direction. These builds are parts intensive. Personally, I do not think the OE bars, and having a local spring shop do your springs are good choices.

Ok, Im all ears. What do you recommend??
 
Find some 1" torsion bars and 6 leaf 340 springs to start with. Many are retrofitting modern suspensions now. so many are selling off OE parts for reasonable prices.
 
raising the rear 1" is going to hurt handling
lowering it will help
the higher the CG (center of gravity)
the harder the vehicle is to control
the lower the CG the easier it is to control
 
raising the rear 1" is going to hurt handling
lowering it will help
Unfortunatly, lowering a car out here will make it un practical and possibly broken,...If I could have the look of low and improve the handling,...that would be cool...still doing homework on tire/suspension mods...
 
When you replace your upper control arm bushings run these offset bushings by Moog p/n 7103.

DO NOT use the instructions in the box. Follow the instructions in the picture below.
 

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When you replace your upper control arm bushing run these offset bushing by Moog p/n 7103.

DO NOT use the instructions in the box. Follow the instructions in the picture below.


Yes great info, next question with these installed what should I tell the front end guy who aligns my car, align it to book specs or what?
 
Yes great info, next question with these installed what should I tell the front end guy who aligns my car, align it to book specs or what?

No.

Align for street car with little handling upgrades to:

1/16" toe in
0.25 to 0.5 negative camber with one side less for road camber
3.0 to 5.0 degrees postive caster. Most you can get with both sides equal.
 

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