Vapor Saver system breather cap.....
That's scrambled.
'70 California and '71 50-state + Canada V8 cars got a breather cap with one small-diameter hose to the fuel tank vent, one small-diameter hose to the carb bowl vent, and one large-diameter hose to the air cleaner.
P/N 3462 096.
'70 California and '71 50-state + Canada \6 cars got a breather cap with one small-diameter hose to the fuel tank vent and one large-diameter hose to the air cleaner.
P/N 3462 095.
'70 49-state and '72-up 50-state + Canada cars with all engines got a breather cap with one large diameter hose to the air cleaner.
P/N 3462 094 (and many supercessions to later P/Ns)
Take careful note of those part numbers, which come to us directly from the Chrysler '70-'71 master parts catalogue, and then have a big belly laugh at that moneygrubbing buffoon, Frank Mitchell of Mitchell Motor Parts, who is babbling on eBay and sundry other sites about his new American-made 3462 095s for '70-'78 V8 applications. Hundred 'n' thirty bucks apiece plus shipping. BZZT! Wrong.
The OP needs a 3-port cap ('096) for his V8 application. These haven't been serviced in the aftermarket for a very long time. I see a few of them on eBay for ridiculous money, though here is a cleaned-up used one that's not too hideous. Just as effective: get a good quality ordinary 1-large-port Mopar breather cap, such as a Wix 42997. Looks like this:
Also get a couple of brass fittings with 1/8" pipe thread on one end and 5/16" hose barb on the other. Dorman Everbrass #2731, for example. Stick a magnet up into the bottom port of the breather and drill an appropriately-sized hole in the side of the breather, with the magnet directly below your drill bit so it'll catch shavings that fall. Turn the breather 90° and repeat. Apply J-B Weld to the threads of the pipe fittings and thread them securely into the side of the breather. Let the J-B Weld cure, and voila, your new 3-port breather. You can also drill the fittings into the valve cover if you prefer; angle them upward so any oil drops that might splash into them will drain back down into the crankcase on the inside instead of into the hose connected to them on the outside.
That's scrambled.
'70 California and '71 50-state + Canada V8 cars got a breather cap with one small-diameter hose to the fuel tank vent, one small-diameter hose to the carb bowl vent, and one large-diameter hose to the air cleaner.
P/N 3462 096.
'70 California and '71 50-state + Canada \6 cars got a breather cap with one small-diameter hose to the fuel tank vent and one large-diameter hose to the air cleaner.
P/N 3462 095.
'70 49-state and '72-up 50-state + Canada cars with all engines got a breather cap with one large diameter hose to the air cleaner.
P/N 3462 094 (and many supercessions to later P/Ns)
Take careful note of those part numbers, which come to us directly from the Chrysler '70-'71 master parts catalogue, and then have a big belly laugh at that moneygrubbing buffoon, Frank Mitchell of Mitchell Motor Parts, who is babbling on eBay and sundry other sites about his new American-made 3462 095s for '70-'78 V8 applications. Hundred 'n' thirty bucks apiece plus shipping. BZZT! Wrong.
The OP needs a 3-port cap ('096) for his V8 application. These haven't been serviced in the aftermarket for a very long time. I see a few of them on eBay for ridiculous money, though here is a cleaned-up used one that's not too hideous. Just as effective: get a good quality ordinary 1-large-port Mopar breather cap, such as a Wix 42997. Looks like this:
Also get a couple of brass fittings with 1/8" pipe thread on one end and 5/16" hose barb on the other. Dorman Everbrass #2731, for example. Stick a magnet up into the bottom port of the breather and drill an appropriately-sized hole in the side of the breather, with the magnet directly below your drill bit so it'll catch shavings that fall. Turn the breather 90° and repeat. Apply J-B Weld to the threads of the pipe fittings and thread them securely into the side of the breather. Let the J-B Weld cure, and voila, your new 3-port breather. You can also drill the fittings into the valve cover if you prefer; angle them upward so any oil drops that might splash into them will drain back down into the crankcase on the inside instead of into the hose connected to them on the outside.