who to buy rhs heads from

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lil red

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good information on the camshaft selection - thanks a bunch T67 and Rumblefish

as for the rhs heads, who would you recommend as a reliable supplier for the heads assembled. I was looking at the ones affered by Indy.

any thoughts - any negative feedback from them??
 
Why not buy aluminum heads better cooling and higher compression. I'm not knocking RHS I'm just asking that's all
 
i guess the reason was price - about 400 - 500 dollars difference between RHS and the edelbrocks

I have a buddy that runs eddies on a stroker and his combination performs well I just thought a little too much flow for my application.
 
They are a VERY good head for the money.

Don't worry about the flow. If you are putting a 500 lift cam in, .600 flow numbers mean nothing and are insignificant.

The RHS's that Brian at IMM does work better, flow more and have better components than the OOTB ede's that still need to be checked for valve job, guides. Less money too IIRC. Ede's have more potential after you port the snot out of them and want a 550-600hp mill. Sounds like that's not what you want.

Send him a PM (member OU812) or call, he can help you out.
 
I too recammend Brian, but when i purchased mine, i got them from Hughes engines, they were 875.00 & ready to bolt on but in "stock" form with there 1110 springs, As far as i'm concern, the RHSs are by far a great head with loads of potencial, Brian has proven that, i would buy these heads way before buying eddys.
 
I too recammend Brian, but when i purchased mine, i got them from Hughes engines, they were 875.00 & ready to bolt on but in "stock" form with there 1110 springs, As far as i'm concern, the RHSs are by far a great head with loads of potencial, Brian has proven that, i would buy these heads way before buying eddys.

More potencial then aluminum heads...as far as steel heads go not a chance unless they're W2's....
 
I to just recently purchased a set from Brian at IMM fully asssembled and preped as per the info on his website, he also recommended the Comp cam combo to run with my 340 build --great guy to deal with--will soon know how much power they make.
 
More potencial then aluminum heads...as far as steel heads go not a chance unless they're W2's....

They are iron heads 1st off, not steel.
2nd material alone does not dictate potential or flow, port shape and core thickness in significant ares does.
3rd If you really run these heads for long enough on a race or strip rig, you'd find that all the bolt holes need heli coiling from stripping out from multiple routine/seasonal tear downs and the inevitable corroding of aluminum.
4th eddelbrocks still have the massive pushrod pinch & head bolt in the way and need additional $$$ to make right ootb, ask some people here like a certain ex moderator who had his headaches with eddelbrock heads.
To get the 300 numbers, you are left with some really thin port walls and a headbolt tube sticking into the bowl.

In reality If a 300 cfm 'at a usable lift' head is whats needed... eddelbrocks aren't where it's at, 360-1,w2,w5 is what you need to look at.

And to the guy who said that aluminum heads cool better, sorry but no, it's not a cooling system related issue really..it's the lower thermal conductivity that will allow faster heat transfer from the chamber into the cooling system, it gets the heat there faster but does not necessarily contribute to a cooler running engine, the water pump and radiator capacity dictates that.

When comparing 'with the same everything between the 2 iron/aluminum heads', the aluminum weighs less, thats it.

While there is an app for all heads...
It would be nice if this head discussion could stay black and white or facts without hype or misconception.

Thank you.
 
Well, I also, bought a set of RHS heads from Brian. lol. They are a great head and will make my lil 318 into a screamer. :) Brian really knows his stuff.
 
They are iron heads 1st off, not steel.
2nd material alone does not dictate potential or flow, port shape and core thickness in significant ares does.
3rd If you really run these heads for long enough on a race or strip rig, you'd find that all the bolt holes need heli coiling from stripping out from multiple routine/seasonal tear downs and the inevitable corroding of aluminum.
4th eddelbrocks still have the massive pushrod pinch & head bolt in the way and need additional $$$ to make right ootb, ask some people here like a certain ex moderator who had his headaches with eddelbrock heads.
To get the 300 numbers, you are left with some really thin port walls and a headbolt tube sticking into the bowl.

In reality If a 300 cfm 'at a usable lift' head is whats needed... eddelbrocks aren't where it's at, 360-1,w2,w5 is what you need to look at.

And to the guy who said that aluminum heads cool better, sorry but no, it's not a cooling system related issue really..it's the lower thermal conductivity that will allow faster heat transfer from the chamber into the cooling system, it gets the heat there faster but does not necessarily contribute to a cooler running engine, the water pump and radiator capacity dictates that.

When comparing 'with the same everything between the 2 iron/aluminum heads', the aluminum weighs less, thats it.

While there is an app for all heads...
It would be nice if this head discussion could stay black and white or facts without hype or misconception.

Thank you.

I wasn't talking about just Edelbrocks i was refering to aluminum heads in general..i currently run Edelbrocks with none of the problems you've described..they have their limits too so when i step up to wanting more power i'll going a different route..you can get away with running more compression with aluminum heads too..and they do cool a LOT quicker then IRON which comes in handy when you need to work on the engine between rounds on a hot summer day..and as for the aluminum heads just being lighter geez,is that the ONLY reason the pro classes run them ie:top fuel,funny car,pro stock ect???...as far as the misconception comment any builder will tell ya' if you want to make most power possible aluminum heads have the most potencial of doing it...but you use what you want...
 
i guess the reason was price - about 400 - 500 dollars difference between RHS and the edelbrocks

I have a buddy that runs eddies on a stroker and his combination performs well I just thought a little too much flow for my application.

I am a little confused about this pricing thing. On the IMMENGINE site the RHS heads for and LA/MAGNUM is 1395.00 and at Summit the Edelbrock heads are 1431.00. Where is the 400-500 dollar difference?
 
I am a little confused about this pricing thing. On the IMMENGINE site the RHS heads for and LA/MAGNUM is 1395.00 and at Summit the Edelbrock heads are 1431.00. Where is the 400-500 dollar difference?

By the time you get done fixing the Ede's you'll be in at least $250-400 in correction cost. To get the ede's in the same HP potential range of the RHS head, it will cost $ to port them. Depending on the camshaft you use, the ede springs and retainers may need to go as well. It's all use dependent.

I have and are using some ede's and they are likely the last sets I'll buy. Never bought a set new, used and got them corrected, etc. so I don't have the cash outlay that some have when buying new. I have a current set that EVERY single bolt hole needs a heli-coil.... yeah that's fun! NOT!!!

They are easier to fix, if you say, lose a cheap rod and have a piston bang the head.

If you are going to compare products from hughes and what Brian offers, make sure you are comparing apples... The hughes super prepped ~1400, IIRC, which do not include springs/retainers are more in line with what Brian offers which comes with springs.

Why are Aluminums even being mentioned... nothing to do with the OP's question.
 
I am a little confused about this pricing thing. On the IMMENGINE site the RHS heads for and LA/MAGNUM is 1395.00 and at Summit the Edelbrock heads are 1431.00. Where is the 400-500 dollar difference?

You can buy the RHS heads in stock form for less then 900.00 bucks & are ready to bolt on., So you'll need to shell out another 500.00 for the eddys & still drop another 200.00 or more for currections, Now your talking 700.00+ differance.
 
By the time you get done fixing the Ede's you'll be in at least $250-400 in correction cost. To get the ede's in the same HP potential range of the RHS head, it will cost $ to port them. Depending on the camshaft you use, the ede springs and retainers may need to go as well. It's all use dependent.

I have and are using some ede's and they are likely the last sets I'll buy. Never bought a set new, used and got them corrected, etc. so I don't have the cash outlay that some have when buying new. I have a current set that EVERY single bolt hole needs a heli-coil.... yeah that's fun! NOT!!!

They are easier to fix, if you say, lose a cheap rod and have a piston bang the head.

If you are going to compare products from hughes and what Brian offers, make sure you are comparing apples... The hughes super prepped ~1400, IIRC, which do not include springs/retainers are more in line with what Brian offers which comes with springs.

I agree, people think just because its Aluminum its better., yeah right!!

How fast did Brian go with his RHS heads that he prepped, I'm thinking it was 10.2-10.3 @ 129-130, & he made some changes for even better times, to me thats impressive for a mild iron head, because thats all they are really, there nothing exotic.

Stroked340, why don't you go heads up with Brian with his so-so iron heads :mrgreen:, that'll be funny!
 
More potencial then aluminum heads...as far as steel heads go not a chance unless they're W2's....

Where did i mention that irons heads had "MORE" patential then aluminums, re-read my post carefully!!

I have to agree though, you are hung up on eddys, only because "YOU" have them, doesn't mean anything really!
 
I agree, people think just because its Aluminum its better., yeah right!!

How fast did Brian go with his RHS heads that he prepped, I'm thinking it was 10.2-10.3 @ 129-130, & he made some changes for even better times, to me thats impressive for a mild iron head, because thats all they are really, there nothing exotic.

Stroked340, why don't you go heads up with Brian with his so-so iron heads :mrgreen:, that'll be funny!

Joe,

That was DusterDoug.

Brians car with the magazine engine with ran 6.94/96 in the 1/8th with my junky hughes 10" 3500 converter with about 465HP at the flywheel. That's as fast as some cars around here with a claimed 530hp at the same weight. It's funny how fast the car ran with all the inflated numbers someone insinuated about that happens in all magazine articles to help sell products. I wonder what it would have run with a good converter.

I won't be buying any more ede heads unless it's a GREAT deal with the way the RHS works that Brian does. They do flat out work, no porting, nothing and capable of 500hp in a hyd cammed stroker for $1400, can't do that with OOTB ede's unless you put a HUGE camshaft in it like a roller, and that's just more $$$$. Ede's go 240 if you are lucky in stock form, Brians go right at 265-270. RHS have a decent chamber too.
 
If you are going to compare products from hughes and what Brian offers, make sure you are comparing apples... The hughes super prepped ~1400, IIRC, which do not include springs/retainers are more in line with what Brian offers which comes with springs.
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This is true, i was just going off an OOTB head, but ready to bolt-on with any currections that need to be made already done, don't know if Brian offers something like this, I myself was more then pleased with my stock RHS heads & there performance.
 
I agree, people think just because its Aluminum its better., yeah right!!

How fast did Brian go with his RHS heads that he prepped, I'm thinking it was 10.2-10.3 @ 129-130, & he made some changes for even better times, to me thats impressive for a mild iron head, because thats all they are really, there nothing exotic.

Stroked340, why don't you go heads up with Brian with his so-so iron heads :mrgreen:, that'll be funny!

Those times you are quoting are from member "Dusterdoug" and his RHS Headed Duster.
Brian's went a 6.95ish in the 1/8th in his HEAVY Duster which is about a 10.90ish or something close to that in the 1/4! Remember that was with a Non Purpose based Converter and FOOT BRAKING IT! Compression was 10:1 or so on PUMP FUEL! Would have been better for damn sure!
 
Those times you are quoting are from member "Dusterdoug" and his RHS Headed Duster.
Brian's went a 6.95ish in the 1/8th in his HEAVY Duster which is about a 10.90ish or something close to that in the 1/4! Remember that was with a Non Purpose based Converter and FOOT BRAKING IT! Compression was 10:1 or so on PUMP FUEL! Would have been better for damn sure!

Ok, still kickin *** either way!
 
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