wat the eff. . i need help
Alright you need to start over from square one.
LET'S START WITH BASICS. WHAT YEAR MAKE AND MODEL is your car?
WHAT YEAR regulator are you using?
BELOW is a picture of the 69/ earlier single wire field type regulator:
BELOW is a picture of the 70/ later electronic isolated field type regulator:
Now it's sounding like you have the earlier style. Don't just match the wires, MAKE SURE how they are connected. If it's the first (69/ earlier) type, the wire going to the igniton should be hot with the key on. The other wire going to the field --when disconnected from the regulator--should have no voltage.
Check the field on your alternator to make sure one brush is not SHORTED to ground and check to make sure that the field is not shorted.
If you have a single field connection, this means the second brush is GROUNDED. To check that the field is OK, rig a wire with a 5 or 10A fuse holder, hook one end to the battery and the other end to the insulated field terminal. The wire should spark and should not blow the fuse. If you want to be a little more certain, now add your multimeter ammeter in series IF you have a meter that can read amps. The field should read less than 5A (off the top of my head.)
If you are using an "isolated field" (later alternator, two field terminals) Do the same test as above, but unhook BOTH terminals and try the test first to be sure there is NO current flow. This shows that neither brush is shorted, and shows that the field is not shorted. Next, pick one terminal and ground it, and repeat the test as in the upper paragraph.
If all this pans out, and you have the regulator wired correctly you probably just have a defective regulator.
BEFORE YOU PUT a third regulator on the car, I would do a "full field" test to be sure the field has control of charging the car. UNHOOK the field connection to the regulator, and leave the second brush grounded. Start the car---it should not charge. Clip lead a wire from the exposed brush (field) terminal and hook to the output stud. As you ease the RPM up, it should charge "more and more" Be careful you don't generate too much voltage if it charges. Ya can blow up stuff, including tachs, clocks, radios, light bulbs, etc.
Alright you need to start over from square one.
LET'S START WITH BASICS. WHAT YEAR MAKE AND MODEL is your car?
WHAT YEAR regulator are you using?
BELOW is a picture of the 69/ earlier single wire field type regulator:
BELOW is a picture of the 70/ later electronic isolated field type regulator:
Now it's sounding like you have the earlier style. Don't just match the wires, MAKE SURE how they are connected. If it's the first (69/ earlier) type, the wire going to the igniton should be hot with the key on. The other wire going to the field --when disconnected from the regulator--should have no voltage.
Check the field on your alternator to make sure one brush is not SHORTED to ground and check to make sure that the field is not shorted.
If you have a single field connection, this means the second brush is GROUNDED. To check that the field is OK, rig a wire with a 5 or 10A fuse holder, hook one end to the battery and the other end to the insulated field terminal. The wire should spark and should not blow the fuse. If you want to be a little more certain, now add your multimeter ammeter in series IF you have a meter that can read amps. The field should read less than 5A (off the top of my head.)
If you are using an "isolated field" (later alternator, two field terminals) Do the same test as above, but unhook BOTH terminals and try the test first to be sure there is NO current flow. This shows that neither brush is shorted, and shows that the field is not shorted. Next, pick one terminal and ground it, and repeat the test as in the upper paragraph.
If all this pans out, and you have the regulator wired correctly you probably just have a defective regulator.
BEFORE YOU PUT a third regulator on the car, I would do a "full field" test to be sure the field has control of charging the car. UNHOOK the field connection to the regulator, and leave the second brush grounded. Start the car---it should not charge. Clip lead a wire from the exposed brush (field) terminal and hook to the output stud. As you ease the RPM up, it should charge "more and more" Be careful you don't generate too much voltage if it charges. Ya can blow up stuff, including tachs, clocks, radios, light bulbs, etc.
