Well, I jotted down some #'s of my build. Alot of the stuff I had used sitting around so it didn't cost anything. A few parts I traded or some gave to the cause. As you can see the engine was low budget in deed. Even the rings were used from a diff motor.
Block - 1972 Hesston Swather 225ci - $100 (bought three that day for $100)
Head - Don't know the year but used - $0.00
Crank - stock Forged (never been out of block) - $0.00
Rods - stock - $0.00
Pistons - TRW Forged std bore (used from another motor) - $0.00
Rings - Moly (used from another motor) - $0.00
Rods Bearings - Used from another motor - $0.00
Main Bearings - never been out of the Hesston block - $0.00
Oil pump - Stock original Hesston - $0.00
Valves - 1.70 / 1.44 Ebay - $85.00
Springs - Used dual from SB - $0.00
Balancer - Stock Hesston $0.00
Head Gasket - Copper Hussey - $80.00
Head Studs - ARP Custom - $220.00
Main Studs - ARP - $85.00
Rods Bolts - ARP - $55.00
Cam - Erson .465 lift w/ lifters - $130.00
Timing Chain - Rollmaster - $110.00
Dist Gear - New - $6.00
Dist - used from 80's computer controlled D150 - $0.00
Wires - MSD Custom set - $100.00
Water Pump - New Car Quest - $28.00
Chrome Valve cover - Used Ebay - $20.00
Gasket Set - Felpro - $45.00
Intake Gasket - New - $12.00
Intake - Clifford Hyper Pac - $325.00
Header - Cut apart used set of SB and welded by me - $0.00
Everything else is bone stock and came with the motor - $0.00
Machine work on Head - $250 - ported by me
Machine work on Block - $0.00 - honed and cleaned by me
Trans - used 727 from truck - $0.00
Trans kit - $125.00
Trans rebuild - paid a friend to rebuild it - $50.00
Converter - Used - $0.00
Everything else would be something that would fit a small block and a slant so I didn't jot them down. Like fuel system and such.
Everything listed is $1826.00 and this is to get your Slant into the 10's. This is also running a 100% stock oiling system and a non filled block. Motor has been together for 3 seasons and many street floggings (and knocking) trying to get the A/f ratio correct.
Could have been done even cheaper if you get a used intake, valves, stock valve cover and wires. You also wouldn't need the ARP stuff if you were going to just run in the 12's.
Hope this helps the cause Bill and hope you are feeling better. Later
