Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?

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Want to give mucho credit to FastFish. His posts and a couple of threads from other websites provided much of the info I used in my write up. I just consolidated it all into a more comprehensive post. Fact of the matter is I'm copying his system on my build.
 
thanks but not all of it was my thinking,,,,the idea of the slave cylinder mounting making it a puller i found on this site,,,from a guy with a 66 also,,,,but i think he gave up on the entire car,,,so not all is my ideas,,,,just the figureing of the pedal pivot ratio,,,,which i researched thru master power brake web site,, and the trial and error of master cylinders,,,
 
If it wasn't for your posts and pics I wouldn't have felt the need to do a write up. Just giving credit where credit is due. Nice car by the way.
 
thanks man,, just didnt want to take credit for the things that were not mine,,,,,
 
UPDATE...............

as i stated before, i hated my h. clutch setup. well, i decide to pull the dash to put new dashpad, and heater motor, and while i was at it, i pulled the whole setup apart, and moved it up closer to the pivot point of the clutch pedal. and MAN! WHAT AN AWESOME CLUTCH PEDAL I HAVE NOW. IT IS LIKE BUTTER
thanks to all that kept telling me i had the pivot too low on the clutch pedal shaft, and you were right. it is like a new car clutch pedal.
but, i had to hammer and dolly a stamp mark out on the firewall, as the clutch master cyl. comming through the firewall was not sitting flush like that. but went pretty smoothly.

next 4 speed i buid, i will again go with this setup, as now know how to do it!
 
340plot said:
UPDATE...............

as i stated before, i hated my h. clutch setup. well, i decide to pull the dash to put new dashpad, and heater motor, and while i was at it, i pulled the whole setup apart, and moved it up closer to the pivot point of the clutch pedal. and MAN! WHAT AN AWESOME CLUTCH PEDAL I HAVE NOW. IT IS LIKE BUTTER
thanks to all that kept telling me i had the pivot too low on the clutch pedal shaft, and you were right. it is like a new car clutch pedal.
but, i had to hammer and dolly a stamp mark out on the firewall, as the clutch master cyl. comming through the firewall was not sitting flush like that. but went pretty smoothly.

next 4 speed i buid, i will again go with this setup, as now know how to do it!
Click to expand...

sweet! now just post some pictures of it all! I would like to see everything, as I might buy this kit from someone on here. :)
 
340plot what was the aprox. distance from the pedal pivot before and what is it now? Please explain where you measured from-to? 2nd the request for pics of your install. Help us all out with what worked for you.
 
I bought the hyd set up from Mc leod. I ended up using a reverse.
swing master from CNC .

It worked very nicely.
 
i bought a set up from american powertrain comes with a wildwood master and mcleod
throw out bearing no fork or slave
 
mine, when i installed, i had it at about 4 inches down from the pivot point of the clutch pedal. no good there.

when i took the dash out to put in a new pad, i moveed it up to the center of the ""t". where the pedal arm goes down, and there is another bar that is spot welded to the pedal arm itself. if you look at it, you will see 4 spot wolds, in a box shape. i drilled my new hole dead center,a nd that also brought me up to just under 2" from pivot point. let me see if i can get a pic
 
340plot thanks for the answer. That brings your pivot point to exactly where Fastfish has recommended (2" max below pivot). Seems that's the sweet spot.
 
Thanks, this thread will be in my file for sure :read2: cool :cheers:
 
I run a hyd clutch on my 72 Dart s6/833od daily driver. My setup does contain ford parts though (they were free) so reader beware!
My clutch pedal is homemade but a stock pedal will work, some fabrication will be required either way to mount the pushrod for the master cyl. The pushrod is attached 2 3/8" from the pivot point of the pedal. The slave cyl mounting bracket will have to be fabricated but its nothing fancy. With my old tired clutch I could push the pedal to the floor with just my index finger but it was very worn and slipped pretty bad. I swapped in a generic parts store 10" lever style clutch but added 3 extra springs to it so its a little on the heavy side but I can push the pedal to the floor with my thumb.
Parts used:
Master cyl: 83-87 ford 3/4 ton pickup 0.88" bore
Slave cyl: 83-98 ford 3/4 ton pickup w/460ci or diesel 1.25" bore
hyd line: 83-87 ford f series pickup
These parts ^^^ can be bought at any parts store or online for about $100 for all three
homemade bracket for slave cyl

here's some pics:
caution! ford parts inside

ford clutch master cyl:
View attachment 100_0725.jpg

homemade pedal w/pushrod mounted 2 3/8" from pivot point. yes thats a ford pedal pad
View attachment 100_0727.jpg

mounting bracket for slave cyl
View attachment 100_0729.jpg

View attachment 100_0730.jpg

View attachment 100_0731.jpg
 
Gosh daliant!

I don't see a problem with that at all!

Looks like it would be cheaper and less pain in the *** to install also.
 
daliant said:
I run a hyd clutch on my 72 Dart s6/833od daily driver. My setup does contain ford parts though (they were free) so reader beware!
My clutch pedal is homemade but a stock pedal will work, some fabrication will be required either way to mount the pushrod for the master cyl. The pushrod is attached 2 3/8" from the pivot point of the pedal. The slave cyl mounting bracket will have to be fabricated but its nothing fancy. With my old tired clutch I could push the pedal to the floor with just my index finger but it was very worn and slipped pretty bad. I swapped in a generic parts store 10" lever style clutch but added 3 extra springs to it so its a little on the heavy side but I can push the pedal to the floor with my thumb.
Parts used:
Master cyl: 83-87 ford 3/4 ton pickup 0.88" bore
Slave cyl: 83-98 ford 3/4 ton pickup w/460ci or diesel 1.25" bore
hyd line: 83-87 ford f series pickup
These parts ^^^ can be bought at any parts store or online for about $100 for all three
homemade bracket for slave cyl

here's some pics:
caution! ford parts inside

ford clutch master cyl:
View attachment 222746

homemade pedal w/pushrod mounted 2 3/8" from pivot point. yes thats a ford pedal pad
View attachment 222747

mounting bracket for slave cyl
View attachment 222748

View attachment 222749

View attachment 222750
Click to expand...


ford parts off the shelf,,,,thats hot rodding at its finest,,,moving the attach point of the slave to the fork,,inward makes the travel less and easier at the same time,,,, ide like to see how the slave is attached to the fork,,,great job,,,
 
The slave pushes the clutch fork with simple pushrod, just a peice of 7/16 rod rounded off on one end and a lug nut threaded on the other for some adjustment although it isnt really needed its just there for initial set up. The pushrod pushes the fork where the return spring was originally, I just drilled out the hole and flared it a little.
 
im trying to decide what master to use with my t56 i like the idea of using something from the parts store like that ford master but id like to run a line with threads to my throwout bearing, is that a push on line?
 
Yes that is a push-on line, it gets held in with a roll pin. The factory ford line has it on both ends and is pre bent plastic which doesn't fit in an A body very well. Thats the only part of this set up I dont like.
 
I really like the look of the pull type setup that fstfish has rigged up. I found the part specs and it says it requires a 7/8 bore master cylinder for a regular type clutch. I found a Tilton 7/8 bore master cylinder that I'd like to run. But, before I pull the trigger a quick question... Is one 7/8 bore master the same as another? Meaning: does it matter what length the stroke of the master cylinder is? The Tilton I'm looking at is 1.1" length stroke. Thanks for any help on this.
 
I read up some more and found the answer about the master cylinder stroke. It's critical. So, when you go looking for a pull type slave and the specs say you need a 7/8 bore master not just any 7/8 bore master will push enough fluid to get the full range of motion out of the slave.
 
hello, just to throw my bit in...........i had a southwest speed puller slave cylinder then one day it popped.........so io devised this. i had to extend an alu box section onto clutch fork, notice the INNER cable is fixed firm at both ends,you push the pedal and the OUTER steel cable follows the line of the inner cable and pushes the fork....works for me, lol:cheers:
 
I wonder if will be able to make the hydraulic set up from my 07 ram work when I upgrade my clutch to a southbend with HD hydraulics .
 
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