what rotors are these need this part number PICS

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chubsgts

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so i bought disc breaks was told off a a body but i cannot find this style rotor there all just listing a knock off style not one with a hub
inless im suppose to knock off my rotor and install on my old hub
any one got some part numbers or info on what to do

thanks
 

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Use a press to press out the studs. You have to reuse the hub with new, readily available rotors (like from Rock Auto)
 
ok now it makes sense
every one was just showing me the standerd knock off style and was not sure about the hub
 
some one pmed me about having a new set of these in bendix for sale if you see this pm i cannot find that pm any more
 
Rock Auto has new rotors available for very reasonable prices, including Centric base for ~ $20 / each and Bendix Premium for ~$45 / each.

Log on to www.rockauto.com and search for your model year.
 
yea i just ended up buying from there wonder when ill see them they didnt really say
 
65 Dartman said:
Use a press to press out the studs. You have to reuse the hub with new, readily available rotors (like from Rock Auto)
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Do not press the studs out or you will ruin the hubs. You could cut the swage from the front of the studs with a special tool or drill the heads from the rear, then press out. Rest is correct.
 
66fs said:
Do not press the studs out or you will ruin the hubs. You could cut the swage from the front of the studs with a special tool or drill the heads from the rear, then press out. Rest is correct.
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That's not correct.
Those studs are not swedged onto the rotors and hubs.
They are designed to easily press out, to separate the rotor from the hub.
 
hemi71x said:
That's not correct.
Those studs are not swedged onto the rotors and hubs.
They are designed to easily press out, to separate the rotor from the hub.
Click to expand...

I don't know whether you're correct or not but what you say is contrary to what's been said many times here lately. I hope you are right because it would make things a lot easier. My factory manual is for a '64 so it doesn't cover the disc brakes. Anybody here got a FSM for a later model so we can get the final word on this?
 
hemi71x said:
That's not correct.
Those studs are not swedged onto the rotors and hubs.
They are designed to easily press out, to separate the rotor from the hub.
Click to expand...

I've done it too many times. If the rotors are original and untouched, they are swaged on by the studs. Just something to be aware of. I'd hate to see someone ruin a good set of hubs.
 
66fs said:
I've done it too many times. If the rotors are original and untouched, they are swaged on by the studs. Just something to be aware of. I'd hate to see someone ruin a good set of hubs.
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66fs
I'm not going to get into a pissing contest with you here, but you absolutely don't know what the heck you are talking about.
You are trying to pass on false, inacurate, mechanical information to anyone that is reading this posting.
65-72 A Body.
70-72 B Body
66-68 C Body
All these cars use a two piece system. Rotor, and hub assembly.
To replace a rotor from the hub on any of those systems, all that is necessary is to just press out the old studs, and then just press in a new one.
Obviously you aren't in the professional auto mechanic repair trade like i have been for around 30 years, to at least give out information about something that i know about.
Having been rebuilding disc brake systems, and front suspension components for these old Mopars for years, and then selling my parts as a sideline business, i am doing this professionally to earn a living. As well as working at auto repair shops since the early 1980's when i got out of the military.
Some of you may recognize my parts that i rebuild and sell from my eBay ads.
I have been keeping track, and in the past 4 1/2 years i have rebuilt and sold 16 sets of the 65-72 Kelsey Hayes 4 piston caliper disc brake systems, let alone the B, C, E body Mopar brakes.
Had to replace just about all the rotors from those hubs that were original to the parts and none of them are what you call swedged.
So for anyone getting involved with reading this posting, there are no weird problems in replacing rotors on the hubs of these old Mopars.
 
hemi71x said:
66fs
I'm not going to get into a pissing contest with you here, but you absolutely don't know what the heck you are talking about.
You are trying to pass on false, inacurate, mechanical information to anyone that is reading this posting.
65-72 A Body.
70-72 B Body
66-68 C Body
All these cars use a two piece system. Rotor, and hub assembly.
To replace a rotor from the hub on any of those systems, all that is necessary is to just press out the old studs, and then just press in a new one.
Obviously you aren't in the professional auto mechanic repair trade like i have been for around 30 years, to at least give out information about something that i know about.
Having been rebuilding disc brake systems, and front suspension components for these old Mopars for years, and then selling my parts as a sideline business, i am doing this professionally to earn a living. As well as working at auto repair shops since the early 1980's when i got out of the military.
Some of you may recognize my parts that i rebuild and sell from my eBay ads.
I have been keeping track, and in the past 4 1/2 years i have rebuilt and sold 16 sets of the 65-72 Kelsey Hayes 4 piston caliper disc brake systems, let alone the B, C, E body Mopar brakes.
Had to replace just about all the rotors from those hubs that were original to the parts and none of them are what you call swedged.
So for anyone getting involved with reading this posting, there are no weird problems in replacing rotors on the hubs of these old Mopars.
Click to expand...

I do not care who you are or what you have done. I am talking about 66-72 Kelsey Hays Original rotor assemblies. I've had enough untouched rotors to know what I am talking about. It is easy for any reader to check and see for themselves if there is a swage at the bottom of the studs. You probably can just press them out without cutting the swage. I won't take any chances. I've had these brakes for decades. I also don't have to insult you or try to puff myself up.
 
ether way ill find out soon enuff when i set them on the bench and look at the before going to the press i am replacing the left hand threaded ones any ways so ill start there but will keep a eye on the hub and the studs before starting on them
 
Talking to people on the internet is like having a discussion about sex, religion, politics, abortion, eBay.
Everyone has got a passionite opinion about what they do, or don't do.
So after this posting i'm done with any more replies.
You can believe what you want to or don't want to.
Right now i'm involved in doing a brake job and rotor replacement on one of these Kelsey Hayes disc brake A bodys that a kid at the tire shop snapped off two studs, as he had no clue about about left hand studs on the left side of the car.
Here's a photo of what studs look like for the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes.
See anything unusual about them? Of course not. Nothing unique about them that are going to require cutting them off the back side of the rotor.
They just press right out. Why destroy a stud, and pay NAPA about $3.00 each to buy another one, or 5 or 10, when you don't have to.
Why turn a simple job into something complicated when there is no need to.
 

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I just ran into this with my 72 dart and would like to hear more opinions, please.
 
I lied here a little bit.
Said i was done posting here on this thread, but since today was a nasty rainy day in my area, i didn't have much to do.
I'm not much of a computer whiz with scanning things, getting them saved in the computers files, but i scanned this page right out of the Mopar, factory maintenance manual for you all to see.
Now, i'm done.
 

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went to my press set the hubs and rotors up pushed studs out and in within 20 mins for the pair no problem at all
 
Before this web site crashed sometime Sunday, for just about the whole day, someone posted on this thread about needing information about inner and outer wheel bearings for his Kelsey Hayes 4 piston disc brake set up.
Also needed info on the disc brake wheel studs.

Seems lots of postings and replys have vanished and didn't come back up since the crash.
If you didn't see my reply with part numbers, let me list them again.
Inner wheel bearings NAPA # BR6
Outer wheel bearings NAPA #BR2
Rt. hand thread wheel studs for disc brakes NAPA 641-3148
Lt. hand thread wheel studs are pretty much obsolete items, and unobtanium these days.
They aren't manufactured by anyone anymore. So if you absolutely, gotta have lefties, the only way that your going to find them, is to place "wanted" ads in the internet car forums, and then hope someone sees your ad, and then has some that they want to sell to you.

Really, i think your just going to have to bite the bullett and convert to righties.

And the reason you can't find listings for wheel bearings for disc brakes, it seems that in the catalogs, or online, they don't list them for disc brakes for whatever reason.
But the bearings are the same ones used on the 10 inch drum brake applications.

Hope you see, and read this reply, since this board is up and running again Monday morning.
 
good info my next question is the front flex line its just hooks into one cross over tube and into the main line no couplers or any thing
 
hemi71x said:
I lied here a little bit.
Said i was done posting here on this thread, but since today was a nasty rainy day in my area, i didn't have much to do.
I'm not much of a computer whiz with scanning things, getting them saved in the computers files, but i scanned this page right out of the Mopar, factory maintenance manual for you all to see.
Now, i'm done.
Click to expand...

Nice try but that is in the Budd disc brake portion of the manual... I didn't want to post since KH section does not mention changing studs.
Anyway since you guys are doing fine, I'll just chalk the stud thing to one more weird thing that I do. Definately not the first. I'm just glad no one ruined a set of rare 40 year old disc hubs.
 
hemi71x said:
... Lt. hand thread wheel studs are pretty much obsolete items, and unobtanium these days.
They aren't manufactured by anyone anymore. So if you absolutely, gotta have lefties, the only way that your going to find them, is to place "wanted" ads in the internet car forums, and then hope someone sees your ad, and then has some that they want to sell to you.
Really, i think your just going to have to bite the bullett and convert to righties.
Click to expand...

For those of you who want Left Hand Studs they are available from Dorman part number 610-131. Just got some a while back from a real parts store. After reading this I asked my guy if they were still available, and he said they were. In case I got the last two boxes of 10 on the planet, I'll give one up, if one of us wants some.
 
I went through the Kelsey-Hayes Brakes section of the 1972 FSM 3 times a couple of days ago & couldn't find much of anything on how to replace the rotor itself. About all it mentioned was how to remove it & replace it along with the hub.
 
All I know is that years ago when I needed to replace a set, I put a wheel nut on the stud and whacked it with a ball peen. Got all ten out, all ten back in.

Grant
 
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