Vavoline VR1 20W50 Racing Oil

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Why not consider synthetic oil after it's broken in properly?
Go ahead guys, roast me after the last synthetic oil discussion on here.
Check out Ehrenburg's thoughts on it in the latest Mopar Action mag, he knows his stuff.
Synthetic oil isn't for people who are "too lazy to change there oil" as previously discussed on here.
And the prices are in line with the fancy "zinc enriched" oils that i've seen advertised every where.
Better film strength hot or cold. Do some real research before you rule out synthetics.
They are the aircraft industry standard, that speaks for itself.
Dontcha think?
How about F1 racing?
They wouldn't use it if it didn't work.
 
moper said:
Dan, as the builder, it's my choice.
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Of course it is. Who said anything different? Did I show up on your doorstep and force you at gunpoint to pour 5w30 into your engine? No, of course I did not. I'm just speaking up because your choice isn't a sound one, but it is (and remains) your choice, not mine.
 
I went roller so I would only have to worry about keeping it changed. I know theres some intelligent people here but I feel a higher viscosity cushions parts that beat each other better like solid lifters, pushrods,rockers and valve tip faces in a solid cam set up. I wont use low viscosity unless its a roller or hydraulic set up.
 
I change my oil twice a year. I don't put enough miles on it,to warrant any more than that. I use VR1,and a bottle of Comp additive. OK,maybe it's not needed,but,those two bottles cost me about $22. I've got about $3500 in my motor. Seems like pretty cheap insurance to me. But hey,to each his own,do as you please.
 
Dan- what about extreme heat states like South Fla where summer can get over 100 degrees for weeks at a time? Ive been running VR1 20w50 in summer and 10w in "winter".
As a respected Mopar man-your thoughts...?
 
I have been using additives since day one and never had a problem.

I like using marvel because it really keeps the engine clean and the fuel system lubed.
It seems to keep the engine cleaner then just oil alone.
Lucas is nothing more then a very advanced stp oil treatment.
It sticks to internal engine parts and has a higher build- up film then just oil.
I have never lost a engine and they are the cleanest engines when taken apart i have ever seen.
If i had to pick one, I think marvel mystery oil is the best.

When you add it to your fuel it lubricates and cleans everything from the gas take to the piston rings.
Why do you think diesel engines last for a half a million miles or more.
Diesel fuel has a very high lubricating quality to it.
Marvel helps a gas engines rings last longer just like diesel fuel helps a diesel.
To each his own..................10 ways to skin a cat i guess.

I have seen people run their oil so long it looked liked mud and nothing bad ever happened.
I wouldn't reuse any of their engine parts over though.

I have to use my parts over and over and do everything i can to help them last for a long time.
The stuff i add seems to work really good,so why change a thing.

I have been running the same carter hi volume fuel pump for 17 years with out a rebuild.
My buddy uses marvel in his e85 road runner to help his fuel pumps.
He has not lost a fuel pump since.
 
My 54k-mile '73 Dart has 5w30 oil in it in Seattle. If I (and it) were in Florida...

...it would still have 5w30 oil in it.

If it had 200k more hard miles on it and I were trying to squeeze every last mile out of it pending a rebuild or engine replacement, then it might have 20w50 in it. A lot of guys get this backwards: they use oil much heavier than appropriate because they "feel" (with zero scientific basis) that it protects better, but in so doing, they accelerate the wear they think they're preventing.
 
Dartnut, already have a case of synthetic in the closet, need to wait till I put about 3000miles on the car before I can use it.

DA69RT GT, this was my thoughts also, extreme heat of the summer combined with the extra heat the engine will produce with all the performance work done to it.
 
T67POWER said:
Lucas is nothing more then a very advanced stp oil treatment.
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Yep, that's true (well, except for the 'very advanced' part); STP is useless gunk, too, unless you're trying to nurse along a thoroughly whipped (worn out) engine.

It sticks to internal engine parts and has a higher build- up film then just oil.
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In the advertising-marketeering world of words on bottles and counter displays, sure. But in the real world, it actually causes the oil to aerate (foam), greatly reducing its film strength.

Why do you think diesel engines last for a half a million miles or more
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Simple: because they are built much more robustly than gasoline engines.

Marvel helps a gas engines rings last longer
Click to expand...

There is no sound basis for that claim.

My buddy uses marvel in his e85 road runner to help his fuel pumps.
He has not lost a fuel pump since.
Click to expand...

And me, I haven't had a water pump failure ever since I started swinging my left arm in a figure-8 pattern twelve times a day, eleven years ago. I guess it must be working!
redbeard.gif
 
slantsixdan....................
Your pretty funny.
You should do stand up.

I don't claim anything but my own results as proof.

If your talking about that stupid test by bob the oil guy ,with the gears spinning in the oil ,then yea your right.

Spinning a gear threw oil with lucas oil in it will trap a lot of air in the oil because the oil is now thicker and it clings to everything now.
The last time i checked my engine though, it did not have this set up.

If lucas did that to your oil while in your engine,you would not have a engine to talk about because it would have spun a bearing.
The main purpose of oil is to act as a hydraulic fluid keeping the engine parts apart with ----HYDRAULIC PRESSURE.
Lucas helps when you dry start the engine before the pressure comes up.
This is when the parts are touching.

If you want to perform this test in the real world, then put a quart of lucas in your engine and go beat the snot out of it and then drain it.
It won't look like bob the oil guys testing tank.

Maybe you've come to this conclusion some other way.
When my oil is drained it looks very normal and not a bit aerated.

Thicker oil will carry a higher oil pressure reading on any gauge.
Sometimes you need a thicker oil because your bearing clearances call for it.
Marvel Mystery oil is a great preventive maintenance additive and i don't have to swing my arms to make it work.
I just watch the results it has given me and keep using it.


You can believe oil alone has everything you need and everything else is snake oil if you want.
They also said that seat belts could kill you and the titanic was ready to set sail with not enough life boats because it would never sink.
I'm not the guy that takes someones word on something with out proof and i never assume anything.

No disrespect towards you...I don't mind a good rant and rave once and a while........................................:-D
 
T67POWER said:
slantsixdan....................
Your pretty funny.
You should do stand up.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I do try to be a stand-up guy.

I don't claim anything but my own results as proof.
Click to expand...

Your results aren't proof, they're anecdotes. Same with my results, or some other guy's results, or the testimonials printed on the back of the Slick-50 bottle.

Everyone's entitled to his own opinion. Nobody's entitled to his own facts.

You can believe oil alone has everything you need
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That is one of the things I believe. I also believe the sun rises in the East, gravity makes things fall down, red traffic lights mean stop, and that guesses and opinions aren't equal to science and facts.

But that's just me.
redbeard.gif
 
I run straight 30W Valvoline Racing in the summer, and Valvoline Racing 20W-50W in winter. From the "66" 273 Barracuda to the "96" ACR Neon. I change it every 3,000 miles. I have 250,000 miles on 2 or 3 cars with engines running almost like new. Both the Chrysler and Chevrolet racing manuals say, for increased life use straight 30W oil. I will not change my mind. My system works. Y'all make your own decisions.
 
slantsixdan said:
Of course it is. Who said anything different? Did I show up on your doorstep and force you at gunpoint to pour 5w30 into your engine? No, of course I did not. I'm just speaking up because your choice isn't a sound one, but it is (and remains) your choice, not mine.
Click to expand...

lol... You're speaking up because your opinion is my choice is not sound. You post about fact vs opinion but say my choice "isn't sound" with no support for that conclusion. I'm sorry, what is that based on? What factual evidence do you offer to corroborate your .. um... opinion? I'd say you'd have a point if I had any oiling related failures in my engines. I don't. Ever. I've never lost a cam, I've never spun a bearing. Now I've made some mistakes and had errors in judgement, and do have parts failures occasionally but I'm human and if you do enough, those things happen. Lately for me it's been harmonic dampeners coming apart but there's no evidence of issues with oiling or bearings until the aluminum gets into the system. So if history can be introduced as fact, and I believe it should be, where are the facts that my choice are not sound?
Note I'm not asking about your choice as I'm well aware of your opinons. Just asking you to prove mine's not sound with facts I don't believe you have.

.
 
66fs said:
I run straight 30W Valvoline Racing in the summer, and Valvoline Racing 20W-50W in winter. From the "66" 273 Barracuda to the "96" ACR Neon. I change it every 3,000 miles. I have 250,000 miles on 2 or 3 cars with engines running almost like new. Both the Chrysler and Chevrolet racing manuals say, for increased life use straight 30W oil. I will not change my mind. My system works. Y'all make your own decisions.
Click to expand...

i agree the mopar race manual also talks about running the same viscosity oil regularly that you break the motor in on,,
 
T67POWER said:
I have been using additives since day one and never had a problem.

I like using marvel because it really keeps the engine clean and the fuel system lubed.
It seems to keep the engine cleaner then just oil alone.
Lucas is nothing more then a very advanced stp oil treatment.
It sticks to internal engine parts and has a higher build- up film then just oil.
I have never lost a engine and they are the cleanest engines when taken apart i have ever seen.
If i had to pick one, I think marvel mystery oil is the best.

When you add it to your fuel it lubricates and cleans everything from the gas take to the piston rings.
Why do you think diesel engines last for a half a million miles or more.
Diesel fuel has a very high lubricating quality to it.
Marvel helps a gas engines rings last longer just like diesel fuel helps a diesel.
To each his own..................10 ways to skin a cat i guess.

I have seen people run their oil so long it looked liked mud and nothing bad ever happened.
I wouldn't reuse any of their engine parts over though.

I have to use my parts over and over and do everything i can to help them last for a long time.
The stuff i add seems to work really good,so why change a thing.

I have been running the same carter hi volume fuel pump for 17 years with out a rebuild.
My buddy uses marvel in his e85 road runner to help his fuel pumps.
He has not lost a fuel pump since.
Click to expand...

intresting idea on the oil in the gas, for pump lub and mat also be an advantage on rubber carb parts,,,how much marvel to ??? gallons of gas ??? thanks
 
jeremiah2146fa said:
15w40 shell or chevron every time!
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the 15w40 diesel truck oils have also had a major reduction in ZDDP, starting in about 2008,,,because of the new emmission items that go along with the goverment mandated ultra low sulfur diesel fuels,,,

they want t o reduce emmissions ,,,,and odor and the black smoke from diesel trucks and cars,,so most truck oils had to be reformulated to function with particulit filters,,
 
anyone have thoughts/opinions on the Edelbrock SAE30 Premium Break-In Oil for High Performance Engines or Edelbrock 10w40 Zinc Enhanced Performance Oil?

I can't seem to find any reviews or technical info on either and am a little skeptical on oil from a large manufacturing corporation

I'm rebuilding my 318 into a 390 stroker with flat tappet comp cam mutha thumpr and dont wanna destroy my engine/cam on start up
 
follow up on above post.....

edelbrock oils are being made by torco advanced lubricants, a company im not familiar with but seems they do alot in the racing industry so maybe these oils are not as frightening as i first thought
 
JTG, Summit Racing oil- 1800ppm of zinc, on sale for 4.95 qt for semi syn. or dino oil.
Their shipping is very resonable. Orv
 
Good hone with a plate, moly coated rings, grow some nuts and break her in on AMS 15W40 Diesel/marine like I do... hehehehhe
 
Thanks Orv Grote, but I already changed the oil and put in Vavoline VV851 that I purchased from Keystone. The next oil change after 3000miles I will start using synthetic Red Line 12504.
 
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