Pulling my hair out!!!

This is simple. You are a hotshot electronics and airframe expert, this means that YOU CAN FIGURE THIS OUT

NO ONE

The alternator is overcharging? EASY I already told you. UNPLUG the two field connections and DO WITHOUT the alternator until you get the engine to run

You need THREE things to run an engine

COMPRESSION ---have you checked it? (using a gauge on the starter?)

FUEL--This thing been parked? Any chance the fuel is stale? RIG a can overhead with a siphon into the carb, plug off the fuel pump and try that. Put just a little squirt if neccessary down the carb throat with a squirt bottle

IGNITION. You need ignition and at the right TIME

Since you seem to have wiring issues, WHAT KIND of igniton you have?

Points?

Stock Mopar ECU?

MSD/ Other?

UNHOOK the ignition system from the wiring harness and use JUMPER WIRES to hook direct to the battery. That way you'll know there's NOTHING except right at the system to screw up, at least until you get it to run

CHECK THE SPARK. Unplug the coil wire at the distributor, use your 12V test lamp, grounded, as a probe at the coil tower, to check for a nice, fat, blue spark.

Then move to the cap, check it for cracks, dirt, grease, moisture. Pull one wire out of the cap at a time, crank the engine, and check with your probe for a spark. Check all eight

TIMING There is NO substitute for checking the timing AND THE TIMING MARKS

Buy, make or steal a piston stop. Like this

http://www.jerrybramlett.net/images/pic_installation.jpg

Remove no1 plug, make sure the piston is down "a ways", and unhook the battery ground. Install the stop, and using a wrench on the dampener bolt, rotate the engine until it stops on the piston stop. Make a mark onto the dampener directly under TDC on the timing tab. Do the same CCW. Now you'll have TWO marks some distance apart. True TDC will be 1/2 way between, and if the original mark is correct, that is where it will be

Now pull out the stop, hook up the battery, and stick your finger in no1. Bump the engine until your finger gets "blowd out." Now look at the marks, should be just coming up. Bump until they are on about 5-10BTC for a stock or mild cam, 10-15BTC for a real lopety cam.

Now with the marks as above, move to the distributor. Take the time to accurately scribe a mark on the distributor housing rim right under the no1 tower. Now rotate the dist CW (retard), then slowly CCW (advance) until the points just open, or until the reluctor is aligned with the rough center of the reluctor core.

THE ENGINE SHOULD START AND RUN at this setting.

If not, "spring" the rotor and see if the rotor moves CW, then springs back freely CCW (on a small block). This would indicate that at least the mechanical advance was free and working

Post the details of your ignition so we can help you hook it up right, and STAY ON THIS THREAD so things don't become confusing.