70$ voltage regulator vs 20$ one, is it worth it?

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1969dodgedartgt

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I'm looking at a NAPA "mileage plus" $20 voltage regulator vs a NAPA $70 "Echlin" one. I just had a mileage plus one die but that may have been my fault. Is it worth while to spend more than X3 the cheapest price for a voltage regulator?
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
I'm looking at a NAPA "mileage plus" $20 voltage regulator vs a NAPA $70 "Echlin" one. I just had a mileage plus one die but that may have been my fault. Is it worth while to spend more than X3 the cheapest price for a voltage regulator?
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"Mileage Plus" = low-bid Chinese garbage. You'll feel smart for saving the money until it lets you down and you have to walk (in the rain, at night, on a Sunday when everything's closed).

Echlin = not as much of a no-brainer reliable choice as it used to be, same as Standard. You have to be choosy and you have to pay careful attention to country of origin for the exact specific part you're buying.

Are you running the '60-'69 type regulator or the '70-up? If you're running the '60-'69 type, get an Echlin VR-1001 or Standard VR-128.
 
slantsixdan said:
"Mileage Plus" = low-bid Chinese garbage. You'll feel smart for saving the money until it lets you down and you have to walk (in the rain, at night, on a Sunday when everything's closed).

Echlin = not as much of a no-brainer reliable choice as it used to be, same as Standard. You have to be choosy and you have to pay careful attention to country of origin for the exact specific part you're buying.

Are you running the '60-'69 type regulator or the '70-up? If you're running the '60-'69 type, get an Echlin VR-1001 or Standard VR-128.
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or you could a $20 one and put it on and buy a spare for the glove compartment and be $30 ahead. personally I have had good luck with the cheap voltage regulators and electronic boxes from napa, put over 5000 miles on and it still works like it should
 
mmm
just read about how these work and have rapidly moving parts (points).

guess some quality might be in call. or I'd have to figure that its my VR that maybe went bad (carry a multimeter around too)

but your parts look odd wrong dan, I'm looking at vr32b or vr32
your vr128 unit looks like a "two unit regulator" or something (it has three terminals) and the vr1001 has a goofy terminal. are you sure these are right and better then a vr32? I'll just check for made in USA on the vr32 otherwise.
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
...........just read about how these work and have rapidly moving parts (points).

but your parts look odd wrong dan, I'm looking at vr32b or vr32
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Most of the newer replacement regulators will NOT HAVE "moving points" and in fact have been updated with a solid state unit, even though the original was "vibrating points"

Looks to me like Dan is AFU

The Echlin Vr32 appears to be the correct up through '69 regulator
 
67Dart273 said:
Looks to me like Dan is AFU
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Nope. VR-32 is an original-style (points type) standard-duty regulator. VR-34 is a heavy-duty original-style regulator. VR-35, now discontinued, was same as VR-34 except with external adjustment screw. VR-1001 is a fully-potted heavy-duty electronic regulator. All of these will operate the '60-'69 alternator, it's a question of how good and what kind of regulator you want.

(If you want more "incorrect" numbers, Standard #VR101 is original style standard-duty regulator same as Echlin VR-32, VR106 is heavy-duty original-style same as Echlin VR-34, and VR128 is heavy-duty fully potted electronic same as Echlin VR-1001. VR101X, now discontinued, was fancy version of standard-duty points type regulator, with finned aluminum cover and replaceable blade-type fuse -- no Echlin equivalent.)

redbeard.gif
 
I swear, I don't know how you do it. :scratch: Dan, I want to cut your head open & look inside so I can try to figure out how you can keep so much information sorted out in there! :thumleft: You da' man! :D
 
How about a Wells VR 706 ? 1969-older replacement electronic. Good or junk ?
 
I don't like the Wells stuff, though nowadays there is much worse junk on the market. Others have used it with no problems.
 
slantsixdan said:
Nope. VR-32 is.................
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OK, I concede that # will work, but I can assure you I went to the (really crappy) Echlin site and can find no evidence that this no. is a recommended replacement.

I HAVE done this sort of stuff......used to have a mini Japo alternator adapted to my Yamahas 650. No idea, anymore, what it "was."
 
67Dart273 said:
OK, I concede that # will work
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Wait, whoah, time-out. Y'mean yer thinkin' I might not be totally full of it? That there's a slim chance I might not be just makin' stuff up as I go along, that I might actually give good advice based on direct knowledge, experience, and research, and that I might keep my mouth shut when I don't know what I'm talking about…? Wow! So strange, it's almost as if I started looking into (and trying out) regulator options for the '60-'69 charging system twenty years ago, have formed an opinion on what works and lasts the best from that experience, and have been keeping track of the various product changes since then…naw, that couldn't be it. :roll:

I can assure you I went to the (really crappy) Echlin site and can find no evidence that this no. is a recommended replacement.
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So…what? You went to an unhelpful website, didn't find what you might've been looking for and just…stopped and drew your conclusion? What is that conclusion? You're skeered to put a better regulator on your car because the website you went to doesn't give you a permission slip? Okeh, that's your choice. I think it's a thoughtless choice, but it's your thoughtless choice to make on your car.

Meanwhile, I will keep giving good, solidly-grounded advice when I can, and keeping my mouth shut when I don't have good advice to give.

redbeard.gif
 
slantsixdan said:
Wait, whoah, time-out. Y'mean yer thinkin' I might not be totally full of it? That there's a slim chance I might not be just makin' stuff up as I go along, that I might actually give good advice based on direct knowledge, experience, and research, and that I might keep my mouth shut when I don't know what I'm talking about…? Wow! So strange, it's almost as if I started looking into (and trying out) regulator options for the '60-'69 charging system twenty years ago, have formed an opinion on what works and lasts the best from that experience, and have been keeping track of the various product changes since then…naw, that couldn't be it. :roll:



So…what? You went to an unhelpful website, didn't find what you might've been looking for and just…stopped and drew your conclusion? What is that conclusion? You're skeered to put a better regulator on your car because the website you went to doesn't give you a permission slip? Okeh, that's your choice. I think it's a thoughtless choice, but it's your thoughtless choice to make on your car.

Meanwhile, I will keep giving good, solidly-grounded advice when I can, and keeping my mouth shut when I don't have good advice to give.

redbeard.gif
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I'm not gonna get into a pissin' contest with you Dan, but this post of yours is on the borderline.
 
mmm so heres how these cheap vr32b's can go bad

the upper point seems to have welded onto the contact, and then pulled out of its hold down. the upper point now moves freely.

I stuck another vr32b in there, just cause I had one laying around. If it goes bad I'll go with a 1001, 128, just finally stick my mopar electric dist and orange box in there, or at least go with the not so cheap vr32
 

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What we have here is a brand new reproduction voltage regulator for a 1962-1969 Dodge Plymouth or Chrysler vehicle. This regulator looks almost exactly like what the originals look like from the outside, it even has the IGN and FLD stamped into the cover, but hidden inside is a small circuit board with diodes, transistors, and other electronic components. This voltage regulator is completely electronic. No more points that cause voltage fluctuations. Now you can have the best of both worlds, a voltage regulator that looks stock but is all electronic inside. This is a bolt on upgrade, no modifications are necessary. Bolt it on and plug in your factory wiring, its that simple. The cost for these is $28.00 each with free shipping anywhere in the continental US.

If you have any questions you can email me at mrrandyj@aol.com

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This is what I have.Give this guy a shout. Mark
 
honestly, i do have an affection for the stock parts in my car and keeping that way. For $28 bucks and AAA to provide some backup, I'll keep this in mind.
 
Keep in mind that the points burned up for a reason. Remember that the highest-amp alternator originally used with the VR-32 was a 40A unit. The 46A (next step up) and the 60A alternators got the heavier-duty VR-35 (now discontinued externally-adjustable version of VR-34) as factory equipment. The field circuit of a higher-amp alternator tends to draw higher current than that of a lower-amp alternator.

This is still worth keeping in mind even if you go to an electronic regulator; try and find out the ampacity (current capacity) of an electronic regulator you're considering that is of unknown duty rating.
 
Darter6 said:
How about a Wells VR 706 ? 1969-older replacement electronic. Good or junk ?
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I have had very good luck with Wells stuff. They supply the OEMs and have been making electronics for the auto industry since the 50's.

I have had the 69+ Wells (can't remember the number) regulator in my car coming up on 11 years and 65,000 miles.
 
Fear the BEARD!!!! All Dan's Mopar knowledge is stored in that thing :grin:

I run the electric retro style too. Works great so far.
 
Dan whats the amp output of the dual field 70's replacement alternator I got from your friend ray at "northwest old car parts?"?
 
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