Pulling my hair out!!!
I have never seen it done or tried it, but someone mentioned that if you use a propane torch unlit and turn it on a little so when you get close to the leak at the carb, the idle will step up indicating where your leak is.
mmm I wonder if thats more dangerous then the "proper old-school" way of finding vacuum leaks ( take a can of starter fluid and spray around the carb seeing if there is a spot that you spray which changes the idle speed)
this is kinda dangerous and supposedly many eyebrows have been lost to this method. I've done it with success and no eyebrow loss.
I'd field test your alternator or pull it and take it to get tested for free at oreilly
charging circuit is pretty simple, let me quote dan, not sure if this all still applies with your electric regulator but it should.
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The system is really simple. Components are alternator, voltage regulator, ignition switch, and four wires. Check for line voltage at voltage regulator "IGN" terminal with key on and engine stopped. If none, fix the wire between the ignition switch and regulator "IGN" terminal, or the ignition switch itself. If you do find line voltage at "IGN" terminal, then check for voltage acros regulator "FLD" terminal and ground with engine running. If none, replace voltage regulator. If you do find voltage at regulator "FLD" terminal, check for voltage at alternator "FLD" terminal with engine running. If none, fix wire between regulator and alternator "FLD" terminals. If you do find voltage here, then check for 0v between alternator B+ output terminal (the threaded stud) and battery poz with engine stopped. If you see 0v, your car is possessed or it is in fact charging and you're not measuring it correctly. If you see anything other than 0v, then fix the wire from the alternator B+ to the firewall main disconnect and the big terminal on the starter motor and the big terminal on the starter relay and battery poz.
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