Hydraulic roller questions

HemiEd said
Once again, I need some help from you guys, as this hydraulic roller stuff is confusing me, and I have some questions that may seem pretty stupid.

I appreciate your help in advance, and am interested in your opinions. I just put the 89 318 302s back together stock, but I want to get the most out of these 308s on this 360. I have already cleaned up the bowls, tuliped the guides, and matched the ports.

1) Valve springs, I don't find much information about them. I go on Comp's site and it doesn't seem to spell out specific hydraulic roller springs.

If I am going to use a hydraulic roller, I want all the valve spring I can get. They used to tell you what spring goes with what cam, and I don't want to reuse the old ones.
Can I use my shorter Mopar Performance dual springs, that I have always used on 340s?

2) push rods, the stock ones are tooth picks. But due to the nature of the roller lifter, will a thicker pushrod run into interference with the large hole in the 308 head?

3) Rotators, why would I want to keep them? Makes me think I am working on a SBC. The exhaust spring is shorter due to them.

4) should I retain those huge/agressive stem seals?

5) Should I just drop the hydraulic roller and put a conventional cam in it?

In order of how you asked the questions:

1. Which cam do you have? Cant help until unless you have the part number....and NO to the MP springs. Roller lifters need a lot more spring pressure to keep them planted on the cam (bouncing will destroy the lifters REAL fast)also, roller lifters are relatively heavy; thus, needing more spring to control them.
2. Call Smith Brothers Pushrods, they can hook you up. Your tooth picks will not last with roller spring pressures.
3. Rotators, trash themyou will need new retainers and keepers that match the springs.
4. I dont know, someone else will need to field that one.
5. Roller ALL THE WAY! More power, no flat cam problems, etc.