Edelbrock / RHS heads, or go BIG block and put it to bed!

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pilotsf

pilotsf

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You guys are batting a thousand on all your advise !!! Thank you !!!
2 years ago I put a built up 360 in my 68 DART. 17,000 miles on the motor now and pushing 275 hp 300 trq at the wheel with auto 904. 13.50 @ 100mph 1/4 mile. I WANT MORE POWER ! Please help !

A) Eddy alum heads will give me 75 hp for a cost of 2500 installed all parts
B) RHS are cheaper but will they give me enough help
C) ? changing the heads with 17,000 miles to high for head change ?
D) Motor builder offered a 440 long block with aprox 500 hp for 6,000 $

I need all input please. I want to know what you guy would do.
 

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you wont gain 75 hp with just a cyl head change unless maybe your using early 273 heads
 
DO you want more power, or do you want to go faster down the track?

What does your car 60'?
 
360, EB ehads, roller cam, good ignition, and you can get 425+ HP......... Of course, you could do that with your heads too.
 
LXguy said:
DO you want more power, or do you want to go faster down the track?

What does your car 60'?
Click to expand...

Thanks.
My average 60' times were 1.93 with slicks. I was going to put 4.11 gears in the rear for quicker times but I would like to get 300 hp to the wheels, and up my trq. Im just trying to tweak the car a bit for a good drivable street car.

cam is 489 lift

thanks for your you input
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
360, EB ehads, roller cam, good ignition, and you can get 425+ HP......... Of course, you could do that with your heads too.
Click to expand...

I have hp mopar ignition, port and polished stock heads, 489 lift comp cam(non roller). If im getting 275 hp to the wheels I'm prob getting 350-375 hp crank. I would love to get 425hp. will the eddy heads really help? Everyone raves about them. Please enlighten me ???
 
Just remember if you go big block, you'll also need a big block tranny, bigblock motor mounts, or a motor plate, Headers which aren't cheap, exhaust rewelded for the new headers, possibly new radiator for a big block.
If you were starting from scratch I'd say big block, but since you already have a small block why not get some ported edelbrock heads AND a stroker kit.
Probably do all this for alot less than the price of buying that 440 and all the stuff needed to make it run. And end up with even more horsepower than the 440 while not adding the weight!
 
What heads do you have now?

What trans?

I'd probably recommend staying small block. Big block swap is not for the squeamish, and the expense doesn't end with buying the big block.

What gear do you have?
 
Need more info on the combo you have now. Be specific. Convertor, gearing, compression ratio, intake/carb, camshaft info...
 
ProStreetDuster said:
Just remember if you go big block, you'll also need a big block tranny, bigblock motor mounts, or a motor plate, Headers which aren't cheap, exhaust rewelded for the new headers, possibly new radiator for a big block.
If you were starting from scratch I'd say big block, but since you already have a small block why not get some ported edelbrock heads AND a stroker kit.
Probably do all this for alot less than the price of buying that 440 and all the stuff needed to make it run. And end up with even more horsepower than the 440 while not adding the weight!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the break down. Your right, I have a solid car just needs tweaking. One more thing, is 17,000 mile on the motor to high do do a head job. I would hate to start chasing motor repairs.
 
LXguy said:
What heads do you have now?

What trans?

I'd probably recommend staying small block. Big block swap is not for the squeamish, and the expense doesn't end with buying the big block.

What gear do you have?
Click to expand...

Stock polished ported heads 489 lift cam. 904 trans. I will ask you the same question, is 17,000 miles to high to change heads? I know the motor builder will check on everything to make sure, but ?
 
moper said:
Need more info on the combo you have now. Be specific. Convertor, gearing, compression ratio, intake/carb, camshaft info...
Click to expand...

tci 1800-2500 break away converter
3.73 posi
edelbrock rpm intake polished and matched to heads
800 edelbrock carb
480 lift comp tapped cam (no roller) 50 duration comp cam
 
pilotsf said:
Thanks.
My average 60' times were 1.93 with slicks. I was going to put 4.11 gears in the rear for quicker times but I would like to get 300 hp to the wheels, and up my trq. Im just trying to tweak the car a bit for a good drivable street car.

cam is 489 lift

thanks for your you input
Click to expand...

What E.T. time do you want down the track?
 
pilotsf said:
tci 1800-2500 break away converter
3.73 posi
edelbrock rpm intake polished and matched to heads
800 edelbrock carb
480 lift comp tapped cam (no roller) 50 duration comp cam
Click to expand...

What specific part number is that Comp Cam? List exact intake/exhaust lift, duration at .050, and centerline.
 
autoxcuda said:
What specific part number is that Comp Cam? List exact intake/exhaust lift, duration at .050, and centerline.
Click to expand...

# 20-232-4
gross lift - .480
.006 tappet lift 280
@106 intake at center line
@50 lift 231
intake and exhaust lift the same on all specs.
 
moper said:
More Cam info and compression ratio?
Click to expand...

comp cam # 20-232-4 non roller
gross lift - .480
.006 tappet lift 280
@106 intake at center line
@50 lift 231
intake and exhaust lift the same on all specs.

9.5-1 compression
 
IMO, the combo is down on power already. You said "ported and ;olished" for the heads... Who did them? Were they flow tested? Have you done a leakdown test recently?
 
Maybe a small 150 shot of nitrous for the track and keep the drivability for the street.Or sell the small block and go with a big block. I'm probably a bit bias with the BB idea. Good luck with what ever you decide.
 

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Unless you spend money to port the Ede's, and you'll be in ~600 in porting to get them to the RHS level, buy the RHS 2.02 head Brian does at IMM. Better components, valves/springs/retainers, than the ede and MUCH better quality of work on them. He can cut them to whatever chamber size you want to get the static compression where you need it.

You really need to correct the ede machine work before running it.

I'd stick with the SB.
 
moper said:
IMO, the combo is down on power already. You said "ported and ;olished" for the heads... Who did them? Were they flow tested? Have you done a leakdown test recently?
Click to expand...

heads were done at the motor builder. im sure not a real pro job. done with a hand polisher. no flow test. whats a leak down test? I bet if i put edelbrock heads on the motor would bring it back up to where it should be?
 
crackedback said:
Unless you spend money to port the Ede's, and you'll be in ~600 in porting to get them to the RHS level, buy the RHS 2.02 head Brian does at IMM. Better components, valves/springs/retainers, than the ede and MUCH better quality of work on them. He can cut them to whatever chamber size you want to get the static compression where you need it.

You really need to correct the ede machine work before running it.

I'd stick with the SB.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
You have helped me before. Small block it is. Its cheaper and easier. Im concerned that a few have said Im down on power as it is now(mean somethings wrong?). Edelbrock said since i have the eddy manifold and carb we should be good to go with mild porting. Can you give me the complete info for Brian and IMM ? RHS is also cheaper!
One more big question i'm at 17,000 miles after the 2 year build. Is it still worth it to do or to late. motor runs strong.
Thanks again
 
17,000 miles isn't much, not like its got a 4 inch stroke.

The 9.5 compression isn't high enough for aluminum heads, you might lose power over good flowing iron heads.

The breakaway converter is junk compare to the streetfighters. I got a TCI 10 inch and light throttle it feels tighter than my old breakaway. I would swap converters. It help, not sure about 6 tenths but a few it do.

You could also just mill the heads .030 and do a valve job and fresh springs, run a thin head gasket and with a 10 inch converter you just might be close to 13 seconds flat.

The 440 would be better but way more costly, I would save my penny's for fuel cause its not getting any cheaper. plus you would need a 727 trans and yeah the weight will increase in front and traction in back will go down..can your car lose some weight
 
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