Type F fluid in 727

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sbh126

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So I picked up a 68 Polara not long ago with a 383 and a shot 727. I finally got around to swapping out the transmission with a 727 from a 77 New Yorker that I had sitting around. I cleaned it up changed the filter and adjusted the bands before installing it. It shifted smooth and through all the gears before I removed it from the New Yorker. Now it seems to clunk into gear when going from reverse to drive or vice versa. Could I have misadjusted something? It seems to go through the drive gears just fine. One thing that I do need to mention is that I flushed the system and used Type F atf instead of dextron. I had read somewhere on here that it was better fluid and the 727 ran well with it. Is this the cause of my problems?

Another issue I’m having is that when I try to put the column shifter into position 1 or 2, the part that swivels around the column is hitting the bottom of the brake booster. Is there a way to adjust this? I have the linkages lined up correctly. It was like this before I ever changed out the trans. Is it possible I have the wrong booster for my vehicle and its to big? Thoughts… suggestions…
 
re: Type F ATF.
Years ago Type F was recommended to firm up the shifts in a TQ. because of the absence of friction modifiers. Ford, (Type F), smoothed their shifts by using a different clutch plate material than Chrys. or GM.
 
I had my 727 rebuilt last year when I put it and the stroker back into my duster, I used ATF dexron 4+ synthetic Castrol, it shifts perfect no problems, I have heard the type F thing too, like to hear what others hear have to say, anyone else want to chime in??
 
My old tranny builder (R.l.P. Rucker Massey) used to recommend nothing but F in 727s, so that is what I use.
 
I had my 727 rebuilt last year when I put it and the stroker back into my duster, I used ATF dexron 4+ synthetic Castrol, it shifts perfect no problems, I have heard the type F thing too, like to hear what others hear have to say, anyone else want to chime in??


type F is an old school thing. don't think its really needed with the new clutch materials they have now. i have always run dextron and love the way my transmissions shift.
 
Type F is obsolete and getting harder to find. Something to consider if you need to top up somewhere on the road
 
WELLL not all that "old school" the materials used in todays rebuild kits are anything but better then the originals. NOTHING in todays kits is as robust as it used to be...I have seen the internal build specs on both and have inspected them after specific use and I can attest that the newer parts are no where near their original counterparts.

THAT being said there are two well known racing tranny guys pretty close to my house ....they rebuild regular trans' to keep the lights on but they are known for building very HIGH performing transmissions for all makes...... their take is EITHER is fine, ONE is no better than another ( IN STREET VEHICLES ) if you are running over 1000 - 1200 HP different story...... so it is neither OLD SCHOOL NOR NEW SCHOOL....just tranny fluid
 
Type F is obsolete and getting harder to find. Something to consider if you need to top up somewhere on the road

TYPE F CAN BE EASILY FOUND AND PURCHASED in 28 of the 30 parts stores within 30 miles of me....... HELL MEIJER has it!!! Where are you getting its obsolete?
 
I've run type F before and known a lot of people who have run it....and with no bad results. That said, here is my take on it now. THe only reason I've ever heard to run type F where it is not recommended is to firm up shifting. My opinion is that firming up shifts should not be something fluid is relied on to do. that's the job of the internals of the valve body and associated parts. It's their job to tell the transmission how hard to shift, not the fluid. When you realize that, the question becomes more of why run type F....not why not run it.
 
I say no to type F. The new synthetics such as Amsoil, ATF+4 and so forth are much better and last longer. I use Hyundai SPIII in my trans because it's synthetic and I get it for free.
 
bottom line depends on clutches installed, is ok on old stuff as many have stated.
 
We just dropped of a 727 to Turbo Action last week, Paul gave us a shop tour. If I remember right, I asked about a used reverse manual valve body of his, still on jackstands; dextron 3. Ford(which I used to use) is old school now.
 
...........Type F is ok for a race car as the trans gets frshened often, on a street car i dont recommemd as it is not slippery enough and wears the seals till u have a problem.........just ask guzzimike...............kim.............
 
The clunking is the driveline slop in the rear end. With the new tranny, it engages a bit harder.
Jack the rear end up, hold the brake and drop it in gear, esp reverse.
Watch how much the driveshaft turns before it stops.
And don't get too excited......they did it when the car was new.
 
Put Type F in my 68 Barracuda on the street. Shifted very hard. Drained it in short order and replaced it with Dextron.
 
Dunno if right or wrong, but I am running 50/50 F & Dex/Merc. Read about others doing the same.
 
My pals in the awl bidness say no to Type F unless it is specified for the application. It's not as slick as Dexron/Mercon and will accelerate wear on transmissions not designed to use Type F.

Collectively we put together a history that explains where it came from. The first Ford corporate-wide automatic was the Cruise-O-Matic. It was big, heavy, and durable. It was a bit of a power hog and caused quite a hit in fuel mileage. It was known in other circles as the C-6. Somewhere in the 66-68 timeframe, Ford took a clutch disk out of each of the two clutch pack assemblies in the C-6 in search of a little more efficiency. (They also developed the C-4 for use on the small blocks.)

When they took the clutch disks out, they found they had lost some clamping effect. They figured a higher viscosity fluid with a different additive package would help recover most of the loss in clamping without loss of efficiency. The result was Type F. It was in corporate-wide use until 1977 and on some specific units until 1980. It's mostly a Ford affliction, although a few Volvos, Mazdas, and Toyotas used it, too.
 
I think I'm just going to drain and flush with dextron and see if there is a noticable difference.
Another question, at wot what rpm should I be shifting at? I'll have to drive it and see where it is now and let you all know. It might be a few days as my duster is in need of my attenion right now.
Any ideas as to why I cant shift into 1 or 2 manually?
 
The first Ford corporate-wide automatic was the Cruise-O-Matic. It was big, heavy, and durable. It was a bit of a power hog and caused quite a hit in fuel mileage. It was known in other circles as the C-6.

I don't know about this. Daddy had a 65 Falcon with a 170 and it had a C4 that clearly said "Cruise O Matic" on the gear selector tab on the steering column. Read this. It talks about the "C4 Cruise O Matic" too.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1960-1965-ford-falcon12.htm

There was the C3, C4 amd C5, all of which were versions of the C4. The C6 was different transmission altogether. Much in the same way there are differences in the 904 and 727.
 
Little off subject,but I just replaced the fluid in my 4 spd car.Belive I had regular 90wt gear oil in it. The factory service manual says to use ATF. For the 833 a GL-4 oil is also needed for the soft (brass) syncros. GL-4 is becoming very hard to find. Ended up going with Red-Line MT-90 GL-4 transmission fluid,and boy am I glad I did. Feels like a brand new trans. Smooth shifting,no grinding, awsomeness !!!!

So, I am a firm believer in Red-Line oil. Look into it.
 
ATF+4 is what I was told to use for better lubrication. I drive mine on the street with a 5500 8" dia. stall and 456-1's. 29's. Yes it does get hot but no problems yet. Shift light set at 8000. Diesel internals, Drum , planetary's and bolt in sprag for strength. I think my weak link is the 8 3/4 and shaft. Was gona do a 9" , but going to a Dana. Want to stay mopar
 
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