How do you do a burnout in an automatic?

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brandon2701

brandon2701
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I have a reverse manual valvebody in my A904 transmission. I was warned not to do a burn out in 1st gear because of the possible exploding transmission.....i do not know what my stall is so there is no hope there. But otherwise how are you supposed to do a burnout with a manual valvebody in an automatic trans?
Thanks
 
ok to find out stall put the p brake on, put it in 3rd hold the brake and give it gas till the engine wont rev anymore... thats stall

now for burnout go around the water box(street tires) or thru the box (slicks) and put the trans in second, then up shift to third and hold at like 4 grand till you just get smoke...
 
ok to find out stall put the p brake on, put it in 3rd hold the brake and give it gas till the engine wont rev anymore... thats stall

now for burnout go around the water box(street tires) or thru the box (slicks) and put the trans in second, then up shift to third and hold at like 4 grand till you just get smoke...

I just got wood thinking about this. :grin:
 
I have a reverse manual valvebody in my A904 transmission. I was warned not to do a burn out in 1st gear because of the possible exploding transmission.....i do not know what my stall is so there is no hope there. But otherwise how are you supposed to do a burnout with a manual valvebody in an automatic trans?
Thanks

Do you have a line lock installed on your front brakes...?


You have a 904...smart man....the 727 is the problem with blowing up,,,,,,,,

I currently got 3 race cars with 904s in them...we start in 1st gear and then shift into 2nd.....

Now these are none at the drag strip...in the water box.....letting go of the line lock and car moves forward you need to start backing out of the gas...

you dont want to come out of the water in 1st gear as it will kill the over running clutch aka sprag....
 
another thing I use is the limiter in the msd 6al....i connect a 3 step to msd box..

one of the steps controlls the rpm while the line lock is engaged....had to replace seveal pushrods in my daughter's Dart before i got it installed.

2nd step controls rpm while engine is on transbrake...

3rd step limited rpm on engine going down the track in case of part breakage...or someone shifting from 1st into neutral...lol
 
Every automatic I have ever driven it's been really easy just push the right pedal.
 
i've heard this too about the 727 only from a long time dragracer....i was unaware my chrysler 727 is supposedly the most notorious tranny for blowing up after a high revvv 1st gear burnout? either way i have a full manual v body, and enough muscle to burn out in 2nd anyways. not sure what the science/truth of it is. i would honestly think starting in 2nd in a man v body car would be harder on it than burning out in first then going to second, but who knows? i'm eager to see where this post goes.
 
Do you have a line lock installed on your front brakes...?


You have a 904...smart man....the 727 is the problem with blowing up,,,,,,,,

I currently got 3 race cars with 904s in them...we start in 1st gear and then shift into 2nd.....

Now these are none at the drag strip...in the water box.....letting go of the line lock and car moves forward you need to start backing out of the gas...

you dont want to come out of the water in 1st gear as it will kill the over running clutch aka sprag....


Er ahh what gave you the idea that the 727 has a problem with blowing up?
NEVER heard such a thing...care to elaborate?
 
sprag failure causes the front clutch drum to overspeed and explode. That drum is big and heavy in a 727.

if you are racing a 727...get a billet drum and update your spraq
 
i've heard this too about the 727 only from a long time dragracer....i was unaware my chrysler 727 is supposedly the most notorious tranny for blowing up after a high revvv 1st gear burnout? either way i have a full manual v body.

From what I've read most "full manual" bodies solve this problem
 
If you got the reverse manual put it in reverse back up as fast as you could without losing control . Put your shift lever in neutral, mash the throttle, When tach reaches around 6500 but not before, Put shift lever in any forward gear while keeping throttle mashed. The tire's should then smoke, If you hear a rattle noise pull your feet away from the center hump. and let off your burn out is now complete.
 
If you got the reverse manual put it in reverse back up as fast as you could without losing control . Put your shift lever in neutral, mash the throttle, When tach reaches around 6500 but not before, Put shift lever in any forward gear while keeping throttle mashed. The tire's should then smoke, If you hear a rattle noise pull your feet away from the center hump. and let off your burn out is now complete.

Nailed it on the head.
 
805 mopar kid is the only one I would follow, anyone else that does not have above 1000 post I would not trust unless they are known for good information.
 
Doin the burnout in second ain't necessary....BUT it's a good idea for a novice. Here's the deal. It's all about the overrunnung clutch. If you're gonna do the burnout usin low, STAY in the bleach box until the shift to second is COMPLETE. Failure to do this is where the trouble can begin. If you come outta the bleach box and shift to second and it hooks when it makes the shift, it can and probably will rip the overrunning clutch right outta the back of the case and the transmission could even explode. ...and that's no joke. If you don't have a ton of experience, or if you have an automatic valve body, make SURE to shift all the way into second gear while still spinnin in the bleach box. That way there won't be a shock to the overrunning clutch and you'll be fine.
 
If you got the reverse manual put it in reverse back up as fast as you could without losing control . Put your shift lever in neutral, mash the throttle, When tach reaches around 6500 but not before, Put shift lever in any forward gear while keeping throttle mashed. The tire's should then smoke, If you hear a rattle noise pull your feet away from the center hump. and let off your burn out is now complete.

Why are you allowed in here?
 

GOLLY! I read thru quite a bit of these threads and the summary from my perspective is....these threads are primarily about drag racing at a drag strip where everyone pushes the limits of pretty much everything...under those circumstances I have seen 50k motors & trans's explode all over the place in vitually every brand of trans and engine. These guys are talking about short shifting at 7000 rpm and such..... NO ONE DOES THAT CRAP on the streets unless they are insane...... I have never shifted any of my street vehicles at 7000 rpm......and if I did I would kinda EXPECT to grenade something eventually..... essentially you can blow pretty much anything to pieces eventually.....for the most part, doing an occasional burnout ON THE STREET the 727 is a pretty bullet proof trans...if you are all talking about serious race cars.... that is a horse of a much different color
 
Start in first and shift to second. Damn it aint rocket science. Just dont keep it in first till the tires grab.The damage occurs when the driveline slows and the internals dont.
 
Start in first and shift to second. Damn it aint rocket science. Just dont keep it in first till the tires grab.The damage occurs when the driveline slows and the internals dont.

Puzaclky. .....and once again, it'a ALL in the Mopar engine and suspension manuals. ALL of it.
 
If you got the reverse manual put it in reverse back up as fast as you could without losing control . Put your shift lever in neutral, mash the throttle, When tach reaches around 6500 but not before, Put shift lever in any forward gear while keeping throttle mashed. The tire's should then smoke, If you hear a rattle noise pull your feet away from the center hump. and let off your burn out is now complete.



HILARIOUS!!!!
proof positive you can explode anything if you try hard enough...I've owned and run pretty hard, a gaggle of mopars w 727's with all sorts of power plants in front of them...not one ever gave me a bit of problems...but then again I never shifted out at 7000 rpm...had I done such a thing I think I would have been expecting something bad to happen...but none of these cars were "race vehicles" built for racing...they were all street vehicles
 
Brandon never did say whether he want's to do a burnout on the street or at the strip and whether he has line lock or not.
 
GOLLY!........... from my perspective is....these threads are primarily about drag racing..... where everyone pushes the limits of pretty much everything.. at 7000 rpm and such..... NO ONE DOES THAT CRAP on the streets

You can scatter one of these at considerably below any 7K, and most any good modern street engine will go that high, anyhow.

READ and find out what the problem is. YOU CAN CAUSE this problem simply by breaking something in the rear axle---it "shocks" the cage in the torqueflite. All of this is outlined in those threads.

This stuff has been documented and written by better people than I.

The following is a quote (excuse the typing mistakes) from the book by Carl H Munroe, "Torqueflite A-727 Handbook."

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"A word about safety.......In addition, a valve body that applies the low-reverse band in manual low is essential...............A failure of the rear overunning clutch assembly can lead to an over-speed condition at the front clutch retainer....UNDER THESE CONDITIONS THE FRONT CLUTCH RETAINER WILL ROTATE AT 2.2 TIMES THE SPEED OF THE INPUT SHAFT........INPUT SHAFT SPEED OF 6000rpm....FRONT CLUTCH RETAINER WILL ROTATE AT 13200 RPM............SHOULD YOU EXPERIENCE A FAILURE OF THE DRIVESHAFT, U JOINT(s), REAR END OR AXLES, YOU MUST REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION AND INSPECT.....OVERRUNNING CLUTCH COMPONENTS..............."

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Further, from "Installation and operation" page 197:

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"Burn-out procedures differ depending on the design of your valve body. You must know whether the reverse and low band is applied when your particular valve body is in the low position.

With a valve body that applies the reverse and low band in low the burnout dcan be started in manual low. Shift to second and third if desired. Decelerate before coming out of the water

UNITS THAT DO NOT APPLY THE VERSE AND LOW BAND IN LOW MUST START THE BURN-OUT IN SECOND GEAR. Shift to high and decelerate before coming out of the water. In any case try not to let the tires hook when coming out of the water."
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Read page 4:

http://www.turboaction.com/17156.pdf

"Chrysler/Amer. Mtrs. “727”, “904”, “998” & “999” Transmissions
All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you should
start burnout in first, shift immediately to second before tires come out of water. No matter whether
it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to deaccelerate
engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure tires never grab dry pavement.
The power burnout provides the best E.T.’s if no dry burnouts are done. No matter if you have a
tranz brake or not, we suggest not doing dry burnouts!
Note - Rear End Breakage & Driveshaft Breakage: If rear end or driveshaft breaks while in first
gear acceleration or burnout, remove transmission and check rear roller clutch for
damage."
 
805 mopar kid is the only one I would follow, anyone else that does not have above 1000 post I would not trust unless they are known for good information.

lol i have 3K plus posts but im only 20:happy7:!

haha just follow the instructions of the VB and you will be fine...
 
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