few more 416 questions

The tapered side of the rod's big end journal faces the radius of the crank. I like to assemble fron to rear, so I mark each rod beam with the cylinder number on the surface that faces the front of the block. I do the same with pistons. Most times I dont have to dismnout and turn the rods around after when I do it that way...lol. Most times...

As far as ring gaps. You have good pistons, and good rods. If it were me, (because I am pro-NOS use)I would gap the rings on the NOS spec. It sure beats sweating bullets alter should you decide to pick some up. If you think you wont ever want it, I would go .019 on the top, .022 on the 2nd. What better builders found is, the top ring is sealed by pressure from the top and rear of the ring forcing it against the wall. If any pressure builds between the 1st and 2nd ring, that force is lessoned, and it causes a domino effect where the top ring doesnt seal well, then the pressure builds between the rings, then the top ring seals less...etc etc etc. That's what can cause ring flutter at high rpms. In tight ring grooves and good rings, this is minimized. But as the engine wears, the problem will get worse. So they increased the gap in the 2nd ring, because it's job is not compression retention. It's job is oil control so the top ring can seal better.