Mechanical Cooling Fan broke during 6000 rpm burnout.

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Way over its 4k limit-most likely your earlier 6K runs caused fractures (or maybe over tighten bolts) and your last 6k run was to much for it..
 
slant6/4speed said:
Remember everyone-Fan RPM is not the same as engine RPM. You have pulley ratios to figure out to find the fan RPM.
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This is what I was thinking. Might try looking for a different set of pulleys. I think the AC cars used water pumps with more blades on the impellers but also used a larger pump pulley to slow the pump down a bit.
 
i have one of those fans too and was pissed when i saw the rpm limit. i dont really know how to take it, when you compare it to a stock fan, there isnt a lot of difference. the one i have does have aluminum blades. i would really think an old used fan that has been flexed for many years would be more likely to fail. i had a fan come apart on my 31 essex, it fatigued over the years when it hame apart it ruined a perfect honeycomb core rad and went through the hood side. pissed me off but no one was hurt.
 
This guy drives on the real highway, in Germany. He should go electric. A nice Flexalite on an electric thermostat in a aluminum shroud will hook him up right.

Mean318, I can put a package together if your interested. Very simple installation and will make your cooling system run a consistent temp....very nice and increases both power and longevity.


*Edit*
Summit has a nice fan listed for $125...3000 cfm 16":
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HFM-ZFB16S/
And the thermostat control, relay and wiring for $46:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890015/
Then make a simple custom shroud.:cheers:
 
Thanks for the input everyone! I think I will try an electric one since I still have one available. When I get my radiator I will still have a couple of weeks to try it out on the street and see how it acts before the races.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Because everything has a life span, fatiuge life.

Last night at work (RailRoad Yard) the crew was moving cars in and out of tracks to take out dead cars/ damaged cars for repair. They moved 3 pair (6 cars) pasted the same manual switch and all was fine.

When the next train that came into the yard had to pass "That switch" again, it would not throw properly and left a gap about 3 inchs wide, wide enuff to allow the train to fall onto the ground.

Lucky the conductor seen the issue before it became a major operation.

The worm gear, very much like the steering box of a car, just simply and finally gave out.
Click to expand...

So who got fired for 30 days? Been a conductor for 13 years and a Locomotive Engineer for 7 and only have been fired once lol.
 
It cracked around the bolt holes. That's usually an indication the bolts were loose.
 
I had this happen on a brand new 1975 camaro with 50 miles on it. A new hood and some other parts got it back on the road.

Go electric they work very good.
 
.
I lost a blade off a fan on the freeway driving my 57" pick up.

Right in the middle of gang country.........

The split second the blade flew off, (straight down thank God), the water pump shaft bent and the remaining blades opened up my radiator.

I limped off the freeway and down the street by a park. I removed the blade opposite the one that flew off and straightened the shaft as close as I could do by eye.

But the radiator, I used needle nose to pinch off what I could, praying I could get out of there by nightfall, I was super lucky and found a tiny Mom & Pop auto parts store and bought a few of those containers of the silver powder stuff.

After filling a milk jug over and over at the water fountain I was on my way.

I got home but had to replace the fan, the water pump, and have the radiator recored.

It was just fatigue,.............

I have had hoods fly up on me three times over the years on these 57' thru 60' trucks, the hood mechanism gets old & brittle and when it lets go you better have good reflexes.

Happened once on the freeway in the fast lane, I clipped the center divider because I could not see, I just tried to keep it straight, but when you get close to one of the big freeway signs the concrete barrier goes wide and around the pole.

Thats where I clipped the barrier, what a pain in the neck.

Had to wrap a chain around the pole and to my bumper to pull it away from my driver side tire.

.
 
Sorry everyone that I have not posted recently but school, kids, and getting the car ready for the races and such have pretty much taken all my time. Well an update on my cooling situation:
I ended up putting on a electric fan that could not move enough air so I went to the junkyard and scrounged two electric fans from a Mazda 323 and ran them through relays and a switch. So far I have had no problems at all even on the hottest days here in Germany (which do not compare to the heat that I grew up in in So. CA). I ended up driving it 250 miles to the strip in May and turned the best times ever with a 13.43 @103.5. I am totally happy with those times being they were with old street tires and fighting for traction. Like I said sorry for the SLOW reply and update.
 
My Roadrunner used to pull the dang water pump shaft right out of the bearings and into the radiator at about that RPM with the steel 7 blade fan.
The first time it did it I chalked it up to a bad built water pump.
The second time it got replaced with a stainless flex fan.

On my current dart I have a 28 inch oversized radiator and a Jegs 16 inch, 2400 rpm electric S-blade with an adjustable temp controller for on/off range and absolutely love it.
Never ever goes over 210 degrees even in the AZ desert in town, and RPM's mean nothing to this setup.
 
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