How to get a good ground in your Mopar
whoa, wait a minute are you saying that the frame or connections (welds or otherwise) will be structurally weak if the resistance is high? Bologna.
That is EXACTLY what I'm saying, and since you didn't understand it the first time, I'll repeat. If the front section of the car ahead of the firewall has such rust problems THAT IT CANNOT CARRY BATTERY CURRENT enough to ground the block, and allow the starter to crank the engine, you'd better not drive it. Clear enough?
This isn't the first time you have had a response to a post that assumed a lot of variables, electrically speaking, and no we don't need your resume again, you worked on the first radars that ever existed, big deal..
It's called technical knowledge, and I don't appreciate your "summary." You weren't there, you have no freekin idea what I've worked on
so as far as proof goes, it is out there, you obviously have not done any work with it..
Once again, you weren't there. I HAVE checked this idea, the old 70 ran for over 4 years of constant driving with no attention other than possibly cleaning the battery, the posts, or replacing it. Back then, some of us rigged several cars with the same chuck of surplus mil spec wire--200 feet of it, all the same way. Care to guess what it weighed? My mind says 5 cars all grounded the same way, and all worked well.
I like that you throw around terms like " ohms law" thats cute. Remember to use this elementary formula you need data, not guesses..
In this discussion, Ohm's law is all we need. It's been around a very long time and it still works. No guesswork with it, either. The common term is "IR losses."
What we REALLY don't need here is your sarcasm. Nothing you offered in your post is factual. Nothing.