How to get a good ground in your Mopar
Thats why all electrical wiring is made of the same metal (steel) that your car is made of, it is such a great conductor, I can't figure out why they use that expensive copper stuff. .
I never said steel was equal to copper ON A SIZE BY SIZE BASIS. What I was getting at--and you know this full well--is that the huge surface area of the considerable bulk of the welded body is "plenty good enough."
and we don't need yours
I work with electrical bonding at least once a week, mainly for rfi, but the lower voltage drops are a secondary benefit (for what I am doing). Maybe I should tell the engineers I work with what your thought process is so I don't need to listen to them. We use the most current milli ohm meters, measure down to the 10 thousandth of a milli ohm, micro ohms i think, and the tolerances are down to a hair..
If you think that a what is essentially a once piece car body is NOT a good ground plane, you need your thought process changed. You don't need to explain to me about precision metering. Been there. As I said earlier, this is NOT the space shuttle, so just how PERFECT do you need to make it?
long ground wire to the tail light shell, if that doesn't make a light bulb go off in your head (pun intended) don't know what will.
I never once said NOT to ground the lamp shells, did I? I just don't agree you must run them clear back up front This is ESPECIALLY true if you are trunk mounting the battery
JUST HOW LOW does the resistance of a #14 lighting circuit have to be? I don't need a milli-ohmeter to determine that Let's say you have a 4-lamp stop/ tail group, with the legacy 1157 bulbs, and that you have the tail lamps on, and your foot on the brake.
Let's say, according to the lamp chart, that the bulb draws 2.10A .59A. With all 8 filaments lit, that's all of 5.38A
DO YOU REALLY BELIEVE that a unibody with properly made ground ties (I never mandated using factory sheet metal screws) is a better ground than 20 feet of what, no10?
So you can save me a hell of a lot of money buying milliohm meters, because YOU said you HAVE them. So here's what you do. Strap one of your nice expensive "most current" meters to a Mopar unibody, say, the right rear trunk floor, with a proper connection, then the other end at a convienient point up near the firewall, again with a proper connection, and you tell me what the resistance through the body is. I'll bet you money it's no more than 20 ft of no10 wire