cudamark,
Thanks for the info.
Pressing out the end pin was another "didn't need to take that off" moment. It did press out fairly easily though.
I added "find lower column seal" to my long-term parts list. If I add that, I will also fix the torn coupler seal. Thanks for pointing out that the seal retainer is different in 65. That probably added to my problems and why I tore the seal. I have the rusty old one and will clean it up for the next pass. Correct, I meant to say "turn signal lever". Amazing how shiny it is with only a little effort.
I would like to get the factory 10-pin connector, but would only work if I can get the mating one and 7 pins on both sides. If you have both sides, please PM, or if you know what the mating harness connector is called and where to buy it. A prior owner cut off both connectors and replaced with butt splices and electrical tape, so I don't have the harness conector either. My main reason for getting the connector is to stay synched to my 65 Newport and replacement turn signal switches.
I agree that the 67-up turn signal switches can work. I put a new one (Paddock) for my 69 Dart in my 65 Newport (after Dart stolen). The main difference is the Newport doesn't need the 2 wires on the cam. I also recall trimming the body of the switch slightly. The cam wires are needed in cars that share the same filament for turn signal and stop light in the rear. BTW, I never liked that dinky single-bulb rear lamp in my 69 Dart (safe?). I eventually got a plastic cam for the Newport's original switch and re-installed. The "almost new" switch is the one with crimps on the wires in my photo. The Newport's switch seems more rugged, with sliding contacts, instead of sheet metal. The one in my 65 Dart looks similar (rugged, no cam wires) and is probably same PN as Newport's.
