What's the best way to replace the Cluster Voltage regulator?

I know S&W gauges for pre 1970 Chrysler operate on a internal resistance of 20 ohms at 70 degrees. I bought the book on those.
I dont have the factory specs for later models but I've had enough experience with E-body gauges to know they aren't all the same. So.. I went to my 73 and checked the fuel and temp gauges. These are known working gauges and were fairly accurate. I got 14.2 ohms across that temp gauge and 13.6 ohms across that fuel gauge. The resistance in the nichrome wire changes with temperature and with condition after prolonged use. We can guess all day at what the original resistance was and what the allowable tolerance was. I can say + or = .5 ohms can be compensated for in calibration. Does any of this help? Probably not. You just want them to work regardless how exactly accurate they are.
Now whats blowing that fuse ? A couple of things that I have seen...
A loose connector pin on the board. Pushing the harness connector on pushes a pin inward a shorted to the housing. Pulling the connector away brings that pin back out to where it belongs so it looks like there isn't a problem.
Another fault is over tightening the attaching nuts on the gauge posts. Those posts have small square shoulders stamped into a fiberboard. The stamped tin nuts should serve as a warning sign to apply only minimal force but, one can apply enough force to draw the stud completely through that board. Result is dead gauge and possible short to the housing.