Dyno'd the Magnum.

Comp custom grind.
Groos lift .577/.572
Duration @.005 230/236
110 cnetr line.

My cam is similar to that, but smaller. Also comp cams.

224/230
.536/.544
110 lobe sep.

Obviously I have no idea how the lobes themselves compare, but being that they're both comp it might be safe to assume that yours are at least as aggressive as mine?


weird because I know 2 mopar guys who only use these, check MRL performance for one.

If they only use those, how do they know the Edelbrock isn't better? LOL

well, sucks for them. Mine was close to 100-150$ cheaper off of ebay.

And mine is a decent casting with no defects. And the car ran well for the hundred miles or so before it started burning oil and running poorly on the highway.

haha, might have started burning oil because there were left over tin can parts in the intake.

First off, the Pro Products isn't actually a "knock off" air gap. It does have "air gapped" runners and it is dual plane. However, the cross section and runner shape are different.

The performance difference in the Edelbrock for the price difference is some of the cheapest $$$/horsepower you will ever buy.

I saw the exact same thing on the EFI Ford side with the pro products stuff. Their "typhoon" ford intake didn't perform as well as the Ford Cobra/Explorer intake, much less the Performer RPM it was based on.

There is added hassle with the Magnums because you can either run the Edelbrock Magnum version, or get the heads drilled so they can take the LA style.

Here are the wholesale costs of the various intakes (though I'm sure Summit pays even less)

Pro Products $159.50
Edelbrock LA style: $237.94
Edelbrock Magnum $262.99

For you guys who think you don't have a port mismatch, here is the procedure, since on a dual plane you can't just look down the carb plenum:

Place new intake gaskets on heads lined up with the ports as best as you are able. trim any overlap.
Put intake on engine and torque down like you would on install.
Scribe visible portion of intake gasket with an awl at the "edge" where the manifold meets the gasket. This way you'll be able to see *exactly how the manifold sits against the gasket, and thus the head if you lined it up right.

Pull intake manifold and gaskets. Line manifold up against gaskets as run and check port mismatch.

Holding an unmounted intake gasket up against the intake without doing this whole thing tells you nothing at all.

For s stockish 318/360 they're probably fine, but for anything serious, the real deal is the only way to go.

FYI: Even though I don't like the Pro Products intake , I'll beat Summit's $243.95 by $45.00 if you want one!!!! LOL LOL haha