NOW what???????

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bizjetmech

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In the process of reinstalling a new 340 in this POS. Since the motor has been out of the car for 20 years, trying to slog thru the problems......missing pieces, stuff I need to replace not in stock anywhere in town, stuff not going together very well, etc. etc. etc.

A little background info.....the 340 short block isn't original to the car. Tranny is numbers matching. When I mated the two, decided to go with a B&M flexplate, and aftermarket converter. Everything mated fine when I put the engine/tranny together, before I put them in the car. Only thing that concerned me a little was that there was approx 1/2' gap between the flexplate and converter when the converter was fully seated. Bolted the converter to the flexplate, everything cleared fine.

Then I get to the "last straw" for tonight....

So, I'm under the car .....getting ready to install the closeout plate to the converter......and it looks like the converter ring gear is contacting the bottom of the tranny case. WTF, over...?

Only thing I can think of to do is put a jack under the engine oil pan, then loosen the engine/trans attach bolts a little and hope it shifts a little. Or am I missing something here?

While on the trans subject.....

New engine....professionally rebuilt trans. I've preoiled the engine. Any way to preservice/preoil the tranny and converter? Or do I just light the new motor, run it up to 2500rpm, then start pouring tranny fluid in the trans as quick as I can?
 
well you seat the converter but once it is together you have to move it twords the flexplate...

please tell my you put at least a half quart of trans fluid in the converter before install!!!

also before start up just pour a quart in there and check the fluid till it comes up (engine off)... if it is dry it holds like 8 qts or something lol...

P.S. check fluid level running in neutral
 
discharger1332 said:
yes definately put a quart in the converter before insaling it.
Click to expand...

did you see the monster garage where they were doing a dune buggy thing with the troops and put the converter in dry... all kinds of bad... the cut it open and fins were everywhere...
 
So the quart in the converter will help with the converter ring gear hitting the bell housing??

Me thinks the converter isn't all the way in, OR your just over tantalizing things.
 
there is usually a lil gap between them, I dont know about a 1/2 inch though.

Like everyone said...put a quart or 2 in the convertor or you'll burn it up.

And no, the ring gear on the convertor should not contact the bell housing, especially if it's bolted to the flex plate...and remember there is a one eccentric bolt out of the 4 flex plate bolts, so mark the plate and convertor 2st, or put them in all finger tight till you spin it 360 and get all the bolts in it...then... torque it by means of a closed end wrench and 1-2 whaps with a rubber mallet.
 
Converter was fully seated, but had to come forward 1/4-1/2 inch or less before it made contact with the flexplate. Started all four flexplate/converter bolts, then turned engine over with a breaker bar to finish torquing them to spec. Ring gear cleared fine at that time. And no, nothing got beat on or dropped when the engine went in.....

And no, I fooked up and there's no fluid currently in the converter. Thought I'd packed it in the trunk when I took it to the shop. When I find out I didn't have it, it was 1-freaking A.M., I've been fighting this crap for 12 plus hours, the so called "plug" I got for sealing the tailshaft didn't, so I'm swimming in old tranny fluid, the guy whose shop I had to borrow to do the swap is pizzed because of the tranny fliud lake, my borrowed helper is pizzed because he's about 6 hours late getting home, and the nearest 24hr Wal Mart is 10 plus damn miles away. I'm getting too old for this ****.

It has a drain plug, so I'll either use a long tube and funnel, or a big syringe to pump fluid into it.

And BTW.......get new bolts to reinstall your headers when you do an engine swap. One might shear off in the head while you are torquing it down. Don't ask me how I found this out yesterday.......

This thing has been a Charlie-Foxtrot since I started the swap, .....at this point, I fully expect for something like a wiped cam lobe when I finally get this thing lit off.
 
sometimes when the converter has to come forward a lil to meet up against the flexplate, you'll have to shim it a lil bit so it doesn't pull out too far. other wise if ya don't and it pulls out too far when your boltin it up, is gonna screw up the front pump in the tranny when you get it runnin... i've had to do this several times in chevy builds. not sure about a mopar tho. anyways it might be sumthin too look into before you start it.
 
805moparkid said:
did you see the monster garage where they were doing a dune buggy thing with the troops and put the converter in dry... all kinds of bad... the cut it open and fins were everywhere...
Click to expand...

I was watching one of the Car Warriors episodes a while back and they were showing the final thrash during the last 10 minutes or so of the 72 hour build. Quick shots of people rushing around doing things trying to finish up the cars before time ran out. One shot was of a person pouring ATF into a converter that was laying on the floor. If they had waited until the last 10 minutes to install the converter then they had no hope of winning. :D
 
empty tran and convert will need over 10 qts.
Pulling convert forward normal, but usually 1/4 to 3/8.
And the ring sitting on the bottom of the case? Wrong convert/ wrong front shaft/ Converter fell forward, off of front pump dogs( which makes no sense) On install, did you use anything to keep the convert home? after the 3 step drop in?
 
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