The foundation for a 5.7 Swap

Uhcoog1,

Disassembly instructions for your throttle body. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!

1. Remove the throttle body from the motor. DUH, I teach high school so I typically state the obvious.:)
2. Pry off the metal band, covering the throttle bodies gear and motor assembly. If you do it carefully you may be able to replace it if you ever want to reassemble a working Drive by wire
3. Remove the two screws holding the throttle plate in place.
4. Manually open the throttle plate and slide out the throttle plate.
5. Locate a pin that holds the throttle shaft in place. Mine was located between the housing that holds the gear and motor assembly and the outside of the throttle bore. The pin is about 1/16" across and about 1/2" in length.
6. Using a TINY drift punch drive the pin out of the housing, there are holes on both ends that allows the pin to be driven all the way through.
7. Once the pins are out you should be able to slide out the throttle shaft with the gears still attached.
8. This will allow you to remove the other idler gears and gain access to the two small screws that hold motor assembly in place.
9. Congratulations, you've either completely disassembled the throttle body or destroyed it.

Nissan throttle body, I hadn't done any research on it, but it is disappointing to see them advertised as 90mm when they are only 75mm. :wack:

If you do a search for ls throttle bodies on ebay, you'll see a bunch of 80 to 90 mm chevy throttle bodies for a lot less than the FAST units.

Also there is a guy on ebay that is selling Ford (I know a four letter word :)) throttle bodies adapted for the hemi. The only issue for megasquirt is that it will work with ford IAC systems but I think it comes pre set up for Chevy. Anyhow you can see his stuff here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-7-...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182

Megasquirt Wiring Harness:

I was going to use DB-37 with solder cups. The Male and Female DB-37 connectors with solder cups on the end allow you simply solder your wires into the cups. Otherwise you need a dedicated DB pin crimper which are pricey, that and the DB pins really aren't designed for wires large than 20 gauge and I think the factory Dodge harness uses. You can see a solder cup DB37 here: http://www.computercablestore.com/DB37_Connector_Solder_Fem_PID107.aspx

I like the idea of using some type of bulk head connector, the only downside of course is price both for the connector and the crimper. GM makes a 22 place connector, so you'd need two. They sell both at DIY and there prices are pretty good, I've looked around and can't find it significantly cheaper. Here is the page:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html

03Ramit

The coil drivers are bosch units that drive up to 4 coils they are bosch units P/N 0-227-100-211

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut..._system/ignition_control_unit.html?3593=52032

You can find them used for about 50 bucks, but new they run over 100, if you you can find them cheaper, let me know. The cheapest I've found the is at rock auto for $114.00

Hemiup,

Since you seem to have a lot of experience building race hemi's. Were there problems due to being inexperienced, chose the wrong engine builder, or too aggressive on the tune, not being methodical, or all of the above.

I knew that you could over-heat a coil with too much dwell, but I didn't know you could cause them to self destruct. Are the Hemi Coils prone to failure?

My hemi is going to be virtually stock, I only plan to add a cam and headers and a slightly larger throttle body. Are there any specific issues with the hemi particularly the fuel injection that presents problems for hot rodders?

Regards,

Joe Dokes