carbureted 5.7 - 6.1

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1994rm250

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well thanks to our member HEMIJOEJR at carlisle after seeing his 5.7 carb'd and built new hemi and hearing it he gave me motivation to look for one and carb it i was gonna start saving money and buy part by part for a 426 but way to out

ANYTHING WEAK ON A 5.7 ? AND HOW ARE 6.1S IM NEW TO THE LATE MODELS any years i should look for ?
tb and intake dont matter bc its getting a carb for my prostreet 73 dart sport
 
Stay away from the 03 truck motors as they are known for weak valvesprings. I would look at a car motor as all the accessories are mounted low and would look much nicer. But really any motor will work. Keep in mind though that the 03-05 truck motors do not have MDS and there for would be one less headache to deal with. The 06-08 Truck motors and all the car motors have MDS. It's not really an issue but for piece of mind would require changing 4 lifters and requires removing the heads.although not much of an issue but it does pose a slight problem. That is assuming the lifters need changing. I am not 100% sure they need to be removed. As I don't have an MDS motor. If you find an 09+ motor it has variable cam timing and I don't know of anyone that has made it work in a swap type setup. But that could change if someone does it and I'm sure seome out there is working on it. It's just info available to us as of yet.
 
Forgot to add the 6.1 is great does not have MDS. The drawback though is cost. As it will not be cheap.
 
I think the big question is what sort of power are you looking to get out of it. The 5.7 seems pretty stout from the factory, but like ram mentioned some years have had issues with valve springs. If you're going to hop one up some with a cam and stuff you'd probably end up swapping out the springs anyway, so that might not be a huge issue. I think I've heard the bottom end is good for around 500 hp stock on the 5.7.
 
Naturally aspirated, yes. Boost, no. The 5.7 pistons aren't that strong. I would recommend changing the pushrods and valve springs, they're the known weak points for the 5.7s. You can use the 6.1 pushrods, and replace all your springs with the 6.1 exhaust springs (the 6.1 intake springs have a higher installed height that requires a taller valve). From what I've seen, ~ a .560 lift cam is the highest you can go with stock heads before the guides have to be clearanced. As far as MDS goes, you can leave the stock MDS lifters in, as long as you don't go to radical with the cam.

As for intakes, you've got three options. The Mopar performance intake, which is a $1,000 piece, the XV intake, a $600 option, or you can go with the INDY Mod man intake, which is $400 if I remember correctly.

The 6.1s are great motors, but still very expensive. I got my 5.7 for $400 with less than 100,000 miles on it. Deals are out there, you just have to know where to look.

Oh, and don't forget your only two options for exhaust. Well, three I suppose. Modify the stock manifolds (not the best option), try to find some Jeep SRT8 manifolds, or run your only option for headers, the $700 TTI's.

I believe the 3G hemi is the better option when compared to piecing together a 2G hemi, which would run you well into the 10-20k range by the time you're done putting the motor together and chopping the car to make it fit. The new hemi costs less to put in, is MUCH lighter, we're talking in the neighborhood of 250 to 300lbs here, and can make equal power. Granted, it's not as cool looking as the old Hemi, but still.

Oh, and don't forget the MSD HEMI 6 box, or the FAST xfi box to control your spark. I would recommend changing the coils to the 06 and up style that didn't use any wires going across the engine. 03-05 used a traditional wasted spark style system that had wires criss-crossing all over the motor. Not pretty.
 
I've heard the bottom end is good for around 500 hp stock on the 5.7.

Well if that's the case my 5.7 should have granaded a long time ago. I was pushing 370 to the wheels in my ram (500ish flywheel) and hitting it with a 150 shot of nitrous. I plan on putting twin turbos on the same motor when it ends up in my duster. We are actually getting ready to start plumbing them in a few weeks. We are hopping to see 650 or better out of it. And that's on a stock 105,000 mile bottom end. I'm not worried about it letting go. But I do have a block in the shop that will be getting built for boost. And should see 22-25psi.
 
the 5.7 is gonna get a cam

the Heads will be pulled for milling i will port and polish the heads

im gonna Use INDY MOD MAN intake dual quad or the EDDYIM gonna buy
TTI SPOOL MOUNTS AND TTI HEADERS
MILIDON OIL PAIN
INDY VALVE COVERS

coil pack relocation with plug wires

double roller timeing chain

looking at 500 - 550

P.S. I use to work at a machine shop and very good friends with my old boss still =)
 
Well if that's the case my 5.7 should have granaded a long time ago. I was pushing 370 to the wheels in my ram (500ish flywheel) and hitting it with a 150 shot of nitrous. I plan on putting twin turbos on the same motor when it ends up in my duster. We are actually getting ready to start plumbing them in a few weeks. We are hopping to see 650 or better out of it. And that's on a stock 105,000 mile bottom end. I'm not worried about it letting go. But I do have a block in the shop that will be getting built for boost. And should see 22-25psi.

Cool, that's good news for me then I guess, lol. I was planning on a set of Inertia heads and SRT Max cam sometime down the road, so hopefully in the 450-500 hp range with my headers and Indy intake. Will be nice not having to worry about things letting go. Did you build up the motor any before hitting it with all the power? The pistons are really the big part I'm worried about.
 
My motor has Benny running inertia heads and a startan cam for about 80-85,000 miles and saw about 300 pounds of nitrous befor the truck was rear ended.
 
how are stock pistons ?

They are fine as long as you keep detonation away. If you hear detonation it's already too late. The pistons break the top ring land. Fairly easy but keep detonation away and they are just fine. Don't let me scare you. Just wanting to tell the truth without sugar coating anything . My buddy's truck that had about 215-230,000 miles with heads cams and nitrous. He has stock pistons and runs low 12's in a 5000 pound truck
 
You have to be carefull and make wise decisions on choices. 11-1 with stock pistons and 5.7L heads , I dont think so. You also have to be carefull with cam selection and stock pistons. There is no doubt in my mind than more than 450hp is attainable with a stock bottom, mabe some head work, and a camshaft that will fit without valve notches.
 
JOE can you PM ME your Cam Specs please ? i called comp cams , and im gonna be buying wiesco pistons , callies crank and K1 rods, change of plans
 
You have to be carefull and make wise decisions on choices. 11-1 with stock pistons and 5.7L heads , I dont think so. You also have to be carefull with cam selection and stock pistons. There is no doubt in my mind than more than 450hp is attainable with a stock bottom, mabe some head work, and a camshaft that will fit without valve notches.

11:1 compression is easy. Even with stock pistons, but it does not happen with the 03-08 Hemi heads. Because you cannot mill them enough. Now go with the 09+ heads on an 08 and older motor and you can reach way high for compression. As they are a closed chamber head and the combustion chamber is much smaller. You will probably need to enlarge it just to get it down to an 11:1
 
JOE can you PM ME your Cam Specs please ? i called comp cams , and im gonna be buying wiesco pistons , callies crank and K1 rods, change of plans

I will send them to you as soon as I find my cam card. I want to go off of paper instead of memory.
 
The stock 5.7 in my Magnum seems to scoot its 4400lbs butt down the road and does well off the line, as good as 2.8:1ish rear gears will do....Check with some LX forums, there is tons of info.
 
JOE can you PM ME your Cam Specs please ? i called comp cams , and im gonna be buying wiesco pistons , callies crank and K1 rods, change of plans


Cam specs are
SERIAL # T 2124-10 SPEC CARD # 18101610 SPEC CARD INQUIRY BY SERIAL #
PART # 112-000-11 CAMSHAFT, CRH57 SPECIAL GRIND ROLLER
CORE C112-13A CAMSHAFT BLANK, CRH57 5.7L DODGE Q&T Special Grind
GRIND # CRH57 3536 /3547 HR107.0
DURATION @ .050 INTAKE 243 ROCKER ARM RATIO
VALVE ADJ INTAKE .000 DURATION @ .050 EXHAUST 257 INTAKE 1.60
VALVE ADJ EXHAUST .000 LOBE LIFT INTAKE .3450 EXHAUST 1.60
VALVE LIFT INTAKE .552 LOBE LIFT EXHAUST .3360
VALVE LIFT EXHAUST .537 LOBE SEPARATION 107.0
DURATION .006 INTAKE C/L 102.0
TAPPET LIFT INTAKE 299 CAM ADVANCE 5
TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST 319 HYDRAULIC Y
VALVE TIMING .050 OVERHEAD CAM N
VALVE OPEN INTAKE 19 JOURNAL DIAMETER STD 2.244
VALVE OPEN EXHAUST 60 RECOMMEND VALVE SPRINGS
VALVE CLOSED INTAKE 43 DEPARTMENT P
VALVE CLOSED EXHAUST 16 SPC INSTR FOR CUSTOMER
JOE OCONE
BIG MUTHA THUMPER
 
Old Skool meets New Skool:

dans_shop_001_detail.JPG


http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/woodighini/vehicles/2296/photos/210478

Greg
 
WOW That looks COOL someone spent the money on the Arlington chip killer?? I want to know the dyno results--I've been waiting for someone to do this!!!!! SWEET --Steve
 
That is most definately not the Arrington "ChipKillr" unit which has a Ford style distributer that leans towards the passenger side like a big block Chrysler and only has 1 spark plug per cylinder.
Not sure but it looks like more of a 'home-made' set up to me. The pics seem to be dated from 2008. I would be interrested to know how well it worked out.

The intake looks to be a polished Edelbrock daul 4 bbl.
 
I'd emailed the gent that did this a few years ago. Apparently, he modifies a Hemi truck front cover to take a GM HEI distributor. Says it works great!

Oct16_783_detail.jpg


Picture_036_detail.jpg


Greg
 
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