RB and a roller Cam

First, you have to seperate hydraulic rollers from solid rollers. Solid rollers need more prep to be safely run on the street. Hydarulic rollers are simply a hydraulic lifter with a wheel on the bottom. They are heavier, and while they rewuire no real modifications, IMO, they are not worth the money. Because they can't have a rate of lift as fast as a .904 sized solid flat tappet. So you've got a larger price tag, need a heavier valve spring, and can't move the valve any faster or better than a flat tappet. The only reason IMO to run one, is to steer clear of needing to run the high zink oils or additives and avoid the breakin procedures. If you want a solid roller on the street, again, IMO, the block needs lifter bore bushings, and the cam needs to be carefully chosen bearing in mind idle time, valve spring life, and roller lifter life.


Depends how big the cam is . I run a .550 crower solid roller in my 70 440-6 Charger and drove it to work every day for over a year . No Issues . Idles great . runs 12.30's through 3.55's even though it's 4000 lbs.

What you said about the hydraulic rollers is food for thought . I had never considered this aspect and may reconsider any urge I might have to run one in the mild 360 I'm building .