Arrrgh....

If you're going to run it with the points distributor, I'd put a ballast resistor back in the system or you'll fry the points and wire lead from the coil. You'll have to check with the manufacturer of the electronic setup to see what that requires. With a points distributor installed, rotate the engine untill the points are open. With a test light or meter, see if it has juice right at the contact on the arm of the points. If not, keep moving back upstream until you find juice. If you have electricity at the points, rotate the engine until the points are closed. Then with the coil secondary wire in the coil on one end, and the other end 1/4" from a good ground (block, head, inner fender) open the points with an insulated screwdriver. There should be a nice blue spark coming out of the coil wire every time you manually open the points. You can set the initial timing this way before you start the engine. When you rotate the crank, there should be a spark when the timing mark reaches the proper spot on the pointer.

That is some REALLY good advice, well-written and I comprehended every word.

I will print it out and try it, ver batim, the next time I work on the car. It may be a few days; it's too darn hot to do it, right now.:pale:

This points-type distributor is only going to be in the engine for the cam break in. Maybe 35 minutes running time at 2,500 rpm, and it will be replaced. Do you think I need to run the ballast resistor as part of this system, considering how short a time it's going to be in use at 12 volts???